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  1. #21
    Jessica's Avatar
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    I know this is an older thread but it caught my eye as I was searching tungsten light and color film...I'm experimenting this coming weekend LOL! I bought these little fun lights:
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Light_600.html and I'll be shooting my portra NC but I got a filter (80A cokin) and looks like pushing 2 stops per the film suggestion for 3200K lights. Is portraNC 160 NOT good? do I need to start out with like 400 or more for a film? (I'm use to b&w and natural light so this is new but I love a challenge LOL! -I usually shoot trix400 natural light)... With my digital (sorry, said the "d" word LOL!) I shoot strobes and big softboxes but I love film so much I'm experimenting.
    ~Jessica

  2. #22
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jessica View Post
    I know this is an older thread but it caught my eye as I was searching tungsten light and color film...I'm experimenting this coming weekend LOL! I bought these little fun lights:
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...Light_600.html and I'll be shooting my portra NC but I got a filter (80A cokin) and looks like pushing 2 stops per the film suggestion for 3200K lights. Is portraNC 160 NOT good? do I need to start out with like 400 or more for a film? (I'm use to b&w and natural light so this is new but I love a challenge LOL! -I usually shoot trix400 natural light)... With my digital (sorry, said the "d" word LOL!) I shoot strobes and big softboxes but I love film so much I'm experimenting.
    Hi,

    The exposure adjustment for the 80 filter is not a recommendation to push the film. Filters not only change color, but also block the overall level of light, so you just have to rate the film at a lower EI in order to give it enough exposure. The papers that came with your filter should say how much adjustment you need. It should be two stops, but may be plus or minus depending on the specific filter manufacturer. This means that you rate your 160 film at EI 40 if you want to read the meter directly, or keep it at 160 and add two stops to what the meter says. It will be tough if shooting a person with 600W lamps, but it can be done, especially if you get the lamps close enough and use your lens wide open or close to wide open.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  3. #23

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    I've been using 320T a bit for shooting in museums - specifically car museums where I like to capture the fall of light on sections of the car, producing almost abstract results. I've got ten rolls left, then I need to look for alternatives.

    This interested me:

    Quote Originally Posted by ajuk View Post
    I thought that was what (for example) Portra 800 was for, indoor shots without a flash, do most pro labs correct the white balance for you?
    Could anyone say if this correction is easy for the home RA-4 printer to achieve or is it a digital thing?

  4. #24
    dmr
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heinz_Anderle View Post
    The Fujicolor amateur negative films from 100 to 1600 ASA (CN, CA, CH, CZ, and CU) are in general insensitive to the color shift by incandescent (tungsten) illumination. That may have been the reason why the 800 speed film has been so popular in photojournalism. Tungsten light is reproduced visually correct, and grain is similar to other brands' 200 ASA films.
    I've found that the Fuji negative films (400 thru 1600) are very forgiving in available light and mixed light, definitely much more so than the (now discontinued) Agfa films. I've been told that the "4th color layer" is responsible for this.

  5. #25
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by perkeleellinen View Post
    I've been using 320T a bit for shooting in museums - specifically car museums where I like to capture the fall of light on sections of the car, producing almost abstract results. I've got ten rolls left, then I need to look for alternatives.

    This interested me:



    Could anyone say if this correction is easy for the home RA-4 printer to achieve or is it a digital thing?
    It was my favorite film. Use it wisely! I am out of it, and I want more. I fear that it won't keep well, however.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  6. #26

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2F/2F View Post
    Hi,

    The exposure adjustment for the 80 filter is not a recommendation to push the film. Filters not only change color, but also block the overall level of light, so you just have to rate the film at a lower EI in order to give it enough exposure. The papers that came with your filter should say how much adjustment you need. It should be two stops, but may be plus or minus depending on the specific filter manufacturer. This means that you rate your 160 film at EI 40 if you want to read the meter directly, or keep it at 160 and add two stops to what the meter says. It will be tough if shooting a person with 600W lamps, but it can be done, especially if you get the lamps close enough and use your lens wide open or close to wide open.
    Surely the camera's AE will notice there is less light? Are you sure it's 2 stops, I thought a mild colour correction filter only filters out 2/3 of a stop.
    Last edited by ajuk; 06-09-2009 at 07:53 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #27

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajuk View Post
    Are you sure it's 2 stops, I thought a mild colour correction filter only filters out 2/3 of a stop.
    Yes, 80A, which converts tungsten lighting (3200K) to daylight balance (5500K) requires a two stop increase in exposure. It's not a "mild color correction"; it's color conversion really.

  8. #28
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    Whats with Slow Tungston Film?

    It looks like T64 is about it. Do people just gel the flash and use it indoors with flash? I would have expected that it would be available in 400, 800, 1600 etc but it isn't.

    Edit: That's Tungsten for those that can spell better than me!
    Last edited by A_M_Johnson; 01-23-2010 at 05:44 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Web Site and Blog Follow me on Twitter Mamiya RB67, several 35MM cameras and an old Voigtlander Bessy that I use as a paperweight

  9. #29

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    Kodak made Portra 100T, Elite Chrome/Ektachrome 160T, Ektachrome 320T, 400T, and 1600T. That was in the early 2000's then they stopped making them recently. You can still find 320T and 160T on ebay or other sites.

    EDIT: Ya your right JD, I looked on the internet and saw that they didn't make 1600 and 400 as a tungsten film. sorry about the misinformation.
    Last edited by RGS122; 01-23-2010 at 06:47 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  10. #30
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    I don't remember the 400 or 1600T films, and 160t and 320t are both gone... I don't know why they are slower, but generally speaking people who use them are doing copy, architecture or studio work and therefore don't need faster films. Filtered for Tungsten, daylight film is lowered 2 stops which might explain the speed thing.
    Last edited by jd callow; 01-24-2010 at 09:06 AM. Click to view previous post history.

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