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  1. #31
    Bill Burk's Avatar
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    Has anyone just gone ahead and printed through the remjet? It's "only" 1.34 density.

  2. #32

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    After debating the issue, waffling, etc., I have decided to shoot some of my older "suspect" Kodachrome as black and white. To that end, I am wondering if any of those who have already done so have any thoughts regarding an appropriate ISO to use. My suspect stash is ISO 64. I am particularly impressed by the shot that Dan Murano posted earlier in this thread. As well, a second question for those who have done some experimenting: Is there a particular developer (are there a couple of developers?) that have worked well?
    An assortment of F-series Nikons with quite a few Nikkors, a pair of M6s with some Leitz glass, a pair of 500c/ms with a wide range of Zeiss optics and, just to help keep Duracell solvent, a D800.

    Favourite films: (1). KE ("Kodachrome Era"): 35mm: PKM25 and PKR64, HP5/Tri-X; 120: PKR64, PanF, FP4. (2). PKE ("Post-Kodachrome Era"): (a) 35mm: E100G, HP5 Plus/Tri-X and Delta 3200; (b) 120: E100G, PanF Plus, FP4 Plus, TMax 100.

  3. #33

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    I shot my Kodachrome 120 at an EI of 12.

    Here is the process I used:

    1. Rem-jet removal bath 2:30 (you can go longer, it won't hurt)
    2. wash (vigorous agitation) 3:00
    3. Develop 6:40
    4. stop bath 0:30
    5. fix 10:00 (I used Kodak Fixer)
    6. hypo-eliminator 2:00
    7. wash 6:00
    8. bleach 2:00 - 3:00 (depends on strength of bleach, could be up to 8 minutes)
    9. wash 2:00
    10. fix 5:00
    11. hypo-eliminator 2:00
    12. wash 6:00
    13. photo-flo 1:00

    For the developer I used HC-110 Dilution B at 65 F
    The bleach I used was the ferricyanide bleach from Kodak Sepia Toner.
    The remjet removal solution I used was 100 grams of Sodium Sulfate and 20 grams of borax in 1 liter of water
    I normally use stainless reels and tanks. Before the bleach step, I switched the film to a plastic reel and tank.
    The negatives were easy to print and had good tonality.

  4. #34
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    Initial attempt with Kodachrome / B&W

    Nothing to lose - this was 120 that at the time intended to be a color image.

    I still have not decided what to make of this outcome. It has the ortho look of films of the 1920's, although my scanning-esthetic may have over-manipulated it to my liking. Rather grainy.

    Developed in HC-110B, at half-again the usual time. The RemJet fell off after the fix in 1-tsp each of 20-muleteam borax and dishwasher detergent in a liter of water, with a wad of cotton. Afterward the usual HCA and wash.

    What with the overall orange (this must disappear somehow when processed correctly) it probably won't print well in the usual way. Kodak used to have a paper intended for this sort of thing. The film has a thickness and curl that makes getting into the Coolscan holder a little tricky. Best to wear cotton gloves.

    Tri-X it ain't, but I have half a mind to shoot the remaining unexposed film. Might be cool to be one of the few in this universe shooting Kodachrome film.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Kodachrome_BW-003.jpg  

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmschnute View Post
    Nothing to lose - this was 120 that at the time intended to be a color image.

    I still have not decided what to make of this outcome. It has the ortho look of films of the 1920's, although my scanning-esthetic may have over-manipulated it to my liking. Rather grainy.

    Developed in HC-110B, at half-again the usual time. The RemJet fell off after the fix in 1-tsp each of 20-muleteam borax and dishwasher detergent in a liter of water, with a wad of cotton. Afterward the usual HCA and wash.

    What with the overall orange (this must disappear somehow when processed correctly) it probably won't print well in the usual way. Kodak used to have a paper intended for this sort of thing. The film has a thickness and curl that makes getting into the Coolscan holder a little tricky. Best to wear cotton gloves.

    Tri-X it ain't, but I have half a mind to shoot the remaining unexposed film. Might be cool to be one of the few in this universe shooting Kodachrome film.
    Wow thanks for sharing, I saw both examples posted on these 4 pages, this gives me hope Shooting Kodachrome will be fun again... except ya know, without the color part

  6. #36

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    Thanks for the quick replies folks; the "recipe" posted by ctsundevil will be one of those I try (I do have 20 rolls to experiment with). That said, does anyone have a developer/processing time recommendation that would allow me to shoot at something closer to box ISO. I usually work with a tripod, but the extra speed may be important/useful for some subject matter.
    An assortment of F-series Nikons with quite a few Nikkors, a pair of M6s with some Leitz glass, a pair of 500c/ms with a wide range of Zeiss optics and, just to help keep Duracell solvent, a D800.

    Favourite films: (1). KE ("Kodachrome Era"): 35mm: PKM25 and PKR64, HP5/Tri-X; 120: PKR64, PanF, FP4. (2). PKE ("Post-Kodachrome Era"): (a) 35mm: E100G, HP5 Plus/Tri-X and Delta 3200; (b) 120: E100G, PanF Plus, FP4 Plus, TMax 100.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradleyK View Post
    Thanks for the quick replies folks; the "recipe" posted by ctsundevil will be one of those I try (I do have 20 rolls to experiment with). That said, does anyone have a developer/processing time recommendation that would allow me to shoot at something closer to box ISO. I usually work with a tripod, but the extra speed may be important/useful for some subject matter.
    Well a good rule of thumb is 2 mintues push per stop... so add 4 minutes if you're going from EI12 to EI64

  8. #38
    bvy
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    It's 2013 and this seems to be the state of affairs (in the US) related to C-41 processing kit availability:

    - The Rollei-Digibase kit is gone. I called Freestyle -- first they said it was discontinued because of the packaging (Part C went bad quite often); then they said it was discontinued by the manufacturer. I have an inquiry in to the manufacturer (Agfa?).

    - Freestyle sells Arista, Unicolor (both powder) and Tetenal (liquid) kits.

    - B&H sells and will ship Tetenal powder kits.

    (As far as I can tell, all of these kits use a blix and not a separate bleach and fix.)

    - Photographer's Formulary doesn't seem to have any C-41 offerings at the moment.

    - Kodak Flexicolor chemicals are still available, but packaging and availability is bewildering. Even so, it's sold in large liquid quantities, and seems impractical for occasional and casual home use.

    Have I missed or misstated anything? I'm back to looking for a non-powder kit with separate bleach and fix.

  9. #39
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    How does this relate to the OP?

    You have not missed anything except Trebla. Apparently, no one who makes kits wants to check the quality of what they do make.

    PE

  10. #40
    bvy
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    Oops! I picked the wrong sticky. I'll find a mod...

    ETA: How embarrassing. I have a message in to Sean to delete it. I'll repost in the proper thread. And open my EYES this time...
    Last edited by bvy; 03-04-2013 at 04:39 PM. Click to view previous post history.

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