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Thread: Fiber Paper

  1. #21
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    I'll add another vote for using fiber paper. The results ar clearly supperior to RC. In the past, I've used RC paper to proof with for economy purposes. Most of the proofs go in the trash anyway. Once I get a print fine-tuned, then I'll switch to FB. Any further adjustments are very small as long as you use the same type of paper.

  2. #22
    lee
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    fiber paper in my darkroom when dried does not seem to curl much. Maybe it is humidity. I don't have a humidity meter. I would think that in cold dry climes the paper would tend to curl more. A dry mount press is important none the less. One thing I find important when finishing the wash process is I take all the prints that day and one at a time I squeegee front and back on a heavy piece of glass then I lay the prints face down on the fiberglass screening. Then I don't fool with them until dry. I generally try to do that when I am done for the day or session so the temptation is gone when I am not there. There is a slight curl towards the emulsion when dry. At least that is how it is in my darkroom.

    lee\c

  3. #23
    David Ruby's Avatar
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    Some of my issues are probably a result of this paper being quite old. Alex answered my next question, which was about the difference in exposures needed bewtween Polymax Rc and Polyfiber for example. As I mentioned, in my test I simply gave this old fiber the same exposure that I found correct for the RC, but it was way way too light. Thanks for the discussion all. Very interesting.

  4. #24
    lee
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    this is not suprising. Run a test strip and see what the exposure really is. I know people that keep copious notes on f stops and time and dilutions and temp and enlarger heights for print processing. That is not me. I make a new test print on each neg in the session. Takes a little time but I get to the matter just the same.

    lee\c

  5. #25
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    Lee, I'm surprised you don't keep notes.

    I keep date, exposure#, paper, size, developer, dilution, magenta(color enlarger), fstop, time, height, soft time, brightness,hardtime(Zone VI cold light head) toner, dilution, toner time, bleach time, as well as boxes to illustrate burn and dodge times

    I find that the next day if I didn't like the final print or months later, I could get exactly the same or very close. It sure takes less time than starting over from the beginning.

    I wonder what everyone else does.

    Michael McBlane

  6. #26
    lee
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    I have tried to keep notes but it boils down to how I learned. I don't have to print someones reorder where it is critical that the prints match and I do sometimes change a lot of stuff in the print from the last time I print a particular negative. I do keep a work print and on the back I will note the type of paper it is and the hard time and the soft time if split printing and the dry down % but that is about all the note keeping I do. I make a new test print if I want to reprint the negative.

    I have tried to keep better notes but I just ain't that kinda guy. But like you Michael, I would be interested in what everyone else does.

    lee\c

  7. #27
    Alex Hawley's Avatar
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    I keep notes but not nearly as extensive. I use a condenser enlarger so none of the cold light settings apply. If using MG paper, I note the filter used. I keep my toner dilutions standard so I just tone until it looks the same as the original.

  8. #28

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    Since I have really just got back into the darkroom, I'm just starting to get a feel for what I do. Right now I try to take a work print, on the back write down the enlarger ht., lens settings, in filter (dichro head), base exposure time, notes on dodge/burn, paper, toner, etc. Will have to see later if these notes indeed help or if I can move them on to a notebook and start getting the negatives organized as well.

    Whew...who knew that there was all this fun in the darkroom!
    Mike C

    Rambles

  9. #29
    ann
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    I keep very detailed notes as well and encourage my student to do so. We have about 5 0r 6 types of printing maps that people can use , sits at the work station and easy to jot down as they go, or jog down information on the back of the paper before development. (work prints only.)

    I have a large presentation easel that sits outside the darkroom door and have taken to jotting notes on that for myself.

    I have my little "black book" that I transfer info to once I am satisfied.

    Re-printed a negative earlier this year that was last printed in 1966. Altho, the paper type and developer was different ; I started with the same basic formula used at that time. Made a 4 sec. adjustment and that was all there was to the reprint.
    I hate note keeping, but love the pay off with the time it saves. Hard to believe it does but that what happens

  10. #30
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    I have posted one of my data sheets in the non gallery picture section.
    This is what I use for finished prints. I just use a stenographers pad for proofs and RC prints which just consists of neg#, Magenta#, height, fstop and time.

    This sheet I kind of adapter from Fred Pickers design.

    The boxes are to draw in the picture to show dodging and burning areas with the times.

    I just made the sheet on the computer and print when I need them.

    Michael McBlane

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