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  1. #31
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Thiocyanate is a good fixing agent. It is used in only one commercial fixer on the market AFAIK. That said, it is a minor ingredient in the presence of Hypo! Use of a potassium salt in a fixer is not a good idea as shown in data in Mees and James. Potassium salts fix much more slowly.

    Thiocyanate must be used with care. It can have bad effects on emulsion coatings under certain conditions.

    You may wish to look at our C-41 blix patent. It uses thiocyanate. I am not unaware of it!

    PE

  2. #32

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    This seems very confusing to me. So is all this advocating the use of kodak chems over tetenal?

  3. #33
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    Use what works for you! However, keep in mind that Kodak and Fuji work together to share information and exchange patent rights on proprietary chemistry, but others do not AFAIK. Therefore, Kodak and Fuji are guaranteed to have processes as compatible as possible but you can see in another thread that there are even problems cropping up between these two giants from time to time when the processes get out of sync.

    PE

  4. #34

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Use what works for you! However, keep in mind that Kodak and Fuji work together to share information and exchange patent rights on proprietary chemistry, but others do not AFAIK. Therefore, Kodak and Fuji are guaranteed to have processes as compatible as possible but you can see in another thread that there are even problems cropping up between these two giants from time to time when the processes get out of sync.

    PE
    PE OK would you now like to comment on the ratios suggested by myself and Anthiril and the likely safe usage of bleach and fix in terms of the number of times they can be used and the likely processing times for bleach and fix.

    I can't speak for the rest of APUG but I for one respect your experience and knowledge and will not be holding you personally responsible for any issues with my processing of films in C41.

    Unfortunately in the U.K and I suspect in other countries except the U.S. Kodak C41 chemicals are only available in almost mini-lab quantities so we are forced to decide between high cost and wastage if we use Kodak chemicals or much lower cost Tetenal chemicals but want to accept your findings that separate bleach and fix is the way to go.

    Thanks

    pentaxuser

  5. #35

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    Pentaxuser,

    Take a look at the Fuji-Hunt C-41 kit:

    http://www.firstcall-photographic.co...-kit-5-litres/

    Tom.

  6. #36
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    And I have given so many possible Bleach and Fix formulas for RA and C-41 here that I'll leave it to you to do a search.

    Sorry, but I get tired typing the same things over and over. My apologies.

    PE

  7. #37

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    Athiril, I just developed my first rolls in Tetenal chemistry and decided to split the bleach and fix as you did, as it seemed like it couldn't hurt. I was wondering what your normal times for the bleach and fix stages are? I used the time in the manual--4 minutes for each--and the negatives turned out brown. I re-did each step (making it 8 minutes total for each step) and they look much better but I feel like my lab-processed negs are still somewhat brighter orange than this. I'll compare for sure when the rolls are dry. I wouldn't really want to add more time as this already puts it into b/w developing time range and there's a lot of appeal in the quickness of C-41 ! It does make me wonder if 1+4 is too high a dilution, although I understand the reasoning behind it.

  8. #38
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    Fujihunt 5l C-41 kit comes with 2,5 liter bleach, to be diluted 1+1. Due to shipping costs, it would surely be more concentrated if it was possible to make. So, 1+4 dilution sounds quite weak. Blix may work a little different way.

  9. #39

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    Tried a couple more rolls tonight. Added concentrate to make each part 1+3, bleached for 8 minutes and fixed for 8 minutes. Negatives were still brown. I'm now beginning to wonder if the Tetenal bleach/fix simply can't work for more than 4 minutes at a time. I redid it for 4 more each bleach/fix and the negatives look fine, I suppose...will have to see after drying if they're still not as clear orange as lab negs. Is there any chemical reason why bleach 8 min / rinse / fix 8 min / rinse would not work but bleach 4 min / rinse / fix 4 min / rinse / bleach 4 min / rinse / fix 4 min / rinse would work?

    Of course now I'm eager to try blix as per instructions...these times are going too long to still have not-perfectly-bright negs.

  10. #40
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    It is always best to follow the instructions if you are not 100% sure what you are doing. Blix may be a bit different than just bleach and fix combined. I've got good results with Tetenal C-41 blix. If you want separate bleach and fix, don't buy Tetenal.



 

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