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  1. #81

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    It is often unwise to post on a thread before reading the preceding messages, however I found the image quality of my C-41 film improved when I began to use the developer within or near to the capacities stated by Kodak; meaning that I now process three 120 films to 1 litre of developer. Others have stated they have achieved excellent results assuming at least double that capacity, so to what extent is this a case of "your milage may vary"?

    Tom

  2. #82

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    Quote Originally Posted by hpulley View Post
    Fuji 800 is just grainy. Have you had any processed elsewhere? That film at pro labs is also grainy as heck, especially if you underexpose it. If you want high speed color film get new Portra 400 and shoot it at 400, 800 or 1600 and do push processing at 800 or 1600. Works great, much less grain.

    That sounds like a lot of agitation. My kit's instructions says 5s every 30s. Not sure if that will accentuate the grain but the instructions also mention that a magenta cast may be caused by developer temperature too high or over-vigorous agitation so I would try just 5s every 30s (not longer at the beginning).
    For a test, I sent in a couple rolls to York photo processing and when they came back, yes, there was some grain, but not as much as my home processed film. Thank you for the tip on agitation, I was using the agitation on an instruction sheet for black and white film, that I got when I took a photo class. I downloaded the full instruction sheet from Freestyle and, guess what? The magenta seems to have been caused by over agitation. Lesson learned!!
    I'm still wondering about the grain. I wonder if that was from over agitation as well. OH well, I will figure it out.

  3. #83
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    Common causes of grain are over development, extreme agitation, improper bleaching and improper fixing. Washing hurts a bit too!

    PE

  4. #84

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Common causes of grain are over development, extreme agitation, improper bleaching and improper fixing. Washing hurts a bit too!
    OK, forgive another obvious question, but does it all mean that reduction of grain is possible if C-41 film is overexposed, underdeveloped, agitated minimally and bleached and fixed generously in properly replenished bleach & fixer? What is the best way to wash color film?

  5. #85

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    Quote Originally Posted by madgardener View Post
    I realize 800 speed film is going to be a little grain, but this reminded me of the old Disc film, it was that bad.
    Quote Originally Posted by hpulley View Post
    Fuji 800 is just grainy. [...] That film at pro labs is also grainy as heck,
    I just wanted to add that Fuji 800 isn't that grainy and if the picture looks like disc film, I'd say the problem is not the 800 speed by itself. This is Fuji 800:

    Steve.

  6. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkroom_rookie View Post
    OK, forgive another obvious question, but does it all mean that reduction of grain is possible if C-41 film is overexposed, underdeveloped, agitated minimally and bleached and fixed generously in properly replenished bleach & fixer? What is the best way to wash color film?
    I'm not entirely sure what you are asking here. C41 film, properly exposed should have low grain. This is normal. If you underexpose, you will still get good grain and you don't need to push it. I have exposed Portra VC 160 to 200 and 400 with good results and no push. I have exposed it at 50 and 25 as well with no push. In fact, that is rather normal and within the specs of the film.

    Kodak gives development times for those who wish to push their films. I believe it is in the URL that I referenced in a post yesterday. You may want to check it out.

    OTOH, pushing or pulling does affect grain and bad bleaching or fixing will affect grain. The bad bleach and fix problem can be eliminated by re-bleaching, washing, fixing and then using the final rinse. This removes the excess silver left by the bad bleach and this is what causes higher grain in a bad process.

    PE

  7. #87

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    [QUOTE=perkeleellinen;1242943]I just wanted to add that Fuji 800 isn't that grainy and if the picture looks like disc film, I'd say the problem is not the 800 speed by itself. This is Fuji 800:

    And that's what my pictures look like when they came back from the commercial mail photo processor.

    From what I have been reading on here, the problem wasn't the Unicolor kit, it was me.

    For what its worth, I should be getting a new Digibase part "C" developer from Freestyle today. I'm looking forward to trying it and see how it works. My biggest issue is the temperature control and it appears that I can use lower temperatures with the Digibase kit. I won't go on about it because its not the purpose of this thread. However I have a couple questions about the Tetenal/Unicolor/Jobo kits. First one is: Are they all the same kit from the same manufacturer? The second one has to do with archivability: does the aforementioned kit have a lower archive rating compared to the non "blix" kits?

    Thanks

  8. #88

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    (...) pushing or pulling does affect grain (...)
    PE, this is exactly what I was wondering about. Which is a safer way to pull? Shortened developing time at 37.8 deg.C, recommended 3'15" but lower temperature or shortened time AND lower temperature? Is it in any way dependent on format or a type of tank (stainless vs. Jobo Expert drum)? Thanks.
    d_rookie

  9. #89
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    DO NOT CHANGE TEMPERATURE!!! Use time only to push or pull.

    But, that said, I never push or pull if the difference is within 1 - 2 stops over or 1 stop under.

    PE

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