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  1. #11
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Excalibur2 View Post
    Well of course you are correct in that you should use a tripod for every shot, but would have thought 1/250 or 1/500 sec for a lens under 50mm should avoid camera shake, and maybe 1/500 sec for lenses about 70-200mm is not good enough for my supposedly steady hand (w/o tripod).
    Some are more steady than others. When there is a thread discussing shooting faster that 1/[focal length] seconds and the mythical Hasselblad mirror bounce there is always someone who claims that they can shoot 2 or 3 or 4 shutter speeds slower with the Blah-blah-X12. Aside from the issue of that they sound apocryphal, not everyone is equally endowed with the same body reflexes and who cares about their claim - most others cannot do that.

    The shooting faster that 1/[focal length] seconds works for most people but not all. If this is a problem for someone then they need to use a monopod or tripod.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #12

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    Focusing can also be an issue. When manually focusing, you might notice that the picture appears in focus over some range of focus distances. And sometimes, it is had to tell EXACTLY where perfect focus lies. This can make some shots turn out soft. Of course, autofocus is not perfect, either. But the decision as to whether to go with manual focus or autofocus should be determined by which is likely to be more accurate for a given individual.

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by StorminMatt View Post
    Focusing can also be an issue. When manually focusing, you might notice that the picture appears in focus over some range of focus distances. And sometimes, it is hard to tell EXACTLY where perfect focus lies. This can make some shots turn out soft. Of course, autofocus is not perfect, either. But the decision as to whether to go with manual focus or autofocus should be determined by which is likely to be more accurate for a given individual.
    Well if you don't use a brickwall or newspaper, focussing shouldn't be a problem as you would look at a shot for the sharpest part and blow up that.

    Makes you think (with reference to sharpness) that with all the things that could go wrong in getting the best out of a lens, a lot of guys are using expensive lenses when cheap would do.
    Anyway thanks all, but no one seems to know whether an excellent 35mm lens is limited for it's full potential, using 200asa film.

  4. #14

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    It depends on the lens and the film.

    Good films resolve (actually, not theoretically) about 100 to 160 lp/mm. The best films did about 200 lp/mm.
    A 200 ISO film can be good, can be less good.

    What lens?

  5. #15

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    Is it true that 200 ISO neg film is just 100 film and the labs push it, and if it is could I get a consumer lab to push a film by a stop just by sticking a 200 DX code on it?

  6. #16

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    Quote Originally Posted by Q.G. View Post
    It depends on the lens and the film.

    Good films resolve (actually, not theoretically) about 100 to 160 lp/mm. The best films did about 200 lp/mm.
    A 200 ISO film can be good, can be less good.

    What lens?

    Well it could be my Epson v750 scanner is the weakest link...i.e. 200asa film and good lenses are better than the scanner......
    The thread can be summed up:- If you want to check a lens out, then select a slow film colour or B/W, use a heavy tripod, set lens at about f8, choose a subject that can show sharpness, check exposure is correct, have a lab develope and drum scan the neg.....phew
    Last edited by Excalibur2; 06-19-2009 at 04:54 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  7. #17

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    Quote Originally Posted by ajuk View Post
    Is it true that 200 ISO neg film is just 100 film and the labs push it,
    No.

    and if it is could I get a consumer lab to push a film by a stop just by sticking a 200 DX code on it?
    The lab will not alter the processing based on the DX coding on the cassette. All C-41 film is processed the same regardless of the speed, so the lab is not interested in the film's ISO rating; ISO 100 and ISO 800 film all go together. Only if you ask for a push or pull will they need to process differently.

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