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Thread: Starting C-41

  1. #11

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    I have left the concentrates in the original bottles and squeezed the air out as best I can. I did just get some Dust-off type compressed gas to fill them up with but haven't yet (the only ingredient I can find listed on the can is difluoroethane). I have 5 rolls I mean to develop sometime this weekend; if the stuff has gone bad I'll make sure you hear about it. :o

  2. #12

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    Oh, and by the way, with the amounts of working solutions I'm using one-shot, I'm not going to get anywhere near the stated capacity of 475 rolls of 24 exp. Probably more like 100 rolls. But since I only shoot maybe 70 rolls or so a year, I'm not expecting to be able to use it all before it becomes unreliable.

  3. #13
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    I picked up some of the dust off too. Like you yet to try it.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by stradibarrius View Post
    I am trying to find a "kit" that have all the different chemicals for
    c-41 or a list of the chemicals needed that I can by separately.

    Gary could you give the list of the chemicals that you showed me when I came over to your darkroom.
    Go to the Adorama website and look for c-41 kits. The LORR kits are for low use like we do. The bleach and fix can be any size convenient and Adorama can ship them.
    Gary Beasley

  5. #15
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    Does the LORR come complete with everything needed?
    "Generalizations are made because they are generally true"
    Flicker http://www.flickr.com/photos/stradibarrius
    website: http://www.dudleyviolins.com
    Barry
    Monroe, GA

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by stradibarrius View Post
    Does the LORR come complete with everything needed?
    Hi Barry,

    This is where I got chemicals (the ones we are talking about in this post) and they were quite helpful. http://www.pakor.com

    They are a mini-lab supply so the only thing you need to be careful of is making sure they know what you want or you may get just the developer rather than the whole kit.

    I almost ended up with 6 bottles of only the LORR developer that would make 10 liters each (enough to develop 1800 36 exposure rolls) and none of the other chems. Once we got on the same page all was cool.

    The kit was a special order and took about a week for them to get for me.

    The part number on my packing slip is 444-2648 (~$70-75 as I remember) for the kit and 444-2595 (~$3) for the starter.

    Here's another link http://www.minilab.com/productdetail..._A_skuID_E_678
    http://www.minilab.com/productdetail..._A_skuID_E_674

    These guys actually list it on the site so they may have it in stock, still you should askto make sure it's the whole kit.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Anaïs Nin

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by stradibarrius View Post
    Does the LORR come complete with everything needed?
    Mikes advice is a big help, but if you go the Adorama route or most any other, the LORR kit is just the color developer, the fix and bleach are purchased separately just like you normally do with B&W chemicals.
    Gary Beasley

  8. #18
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    I found this link at the Kodak site and I think it is new, or at least new for me.
    It shows what is available for my use in a Jobo and clears up on the confusion of what to buy.

    http://www.kodak.com/global/en/busin...?pq-path=12549
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  9. #19

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    I developed the five rolls I had ready and tonight cut and sleeved them. Obviously I can't tell a lot just by eyeballing the negatives, but they look pretty normal to me. So it would appear that the Filmpac concentrates will last in their original packaging for at least 6 months without any special care. But I did spray dust-off into the bottles this time; hopefully it will help.

    The only thing I wasn't happy about was that there were faint streaks of dried stabilizer left on a couple of the rolls. I don't like to squeegee, and I don't like getting stabilizer on my fingers. Anybody tried the finger-wiping technique with nitrile gloves on? Will the rubber wreck my negs?

  10. #20
    mts
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    Use clean photo sponges that are dampened with stabilizer or distilled water. In my experience you have to squeegee the film one pass after hanging it to dry.
    By denying the facts, any paradox can be sustained--Galileo

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