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  1. #11
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    All Kodak films have an AH layer somewhere in the structure either below the emulsion layer or behind on the back. The motion picture films and Kodachrome use Rem-Jet as the AH layer and this must be removed in the process by a special method.

    The other films allow for removal in the process so with C-41, try soaking the film in bleach for about 5' at room temp, then wash 5', soak in fix 5' and wash 5' and then soak in stabilizer. This should remove the "stain" as the AH layer in some color films is gray silver which must be bleached out. If this does not work, repeat with longer times.

    PE

  2. #12

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    Thanks nickrapak, I'll give it a go with the dev, stop and wash process I was talking about.
    Ed - I'm not trying to invent an extra AH removal step, my developing technique, using tubes and not tray/tanks, is not removing all of the AH layer.... or the layer I BELIEVE to be the AH layer!

    either way, there's still something that's streaking across the film...

  3. #13

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    Thanks for your expert input PE, could I just do 5 mins in Blix at RT?
    thanks

  4. #14
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    Well, the RA Blix is about 50% or more weaker than the C41 bleach/fix so I would use 10 - 15 minutes and then a 10 minute wash and then stabilzer.

    PE

  5. #15

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    Many thanks for all your replies, especially Photo Engineer. I chose to soak each neg in developer 2 mins, Blix at room temp (5 min) then washed and stabilised... and I think the 'marks' have now disappeared, so I guess it was an anti-halation layer.

    One interesting observation is that I also have 2 cross processed sheets of Kodak EPP, one of the two exhibits the same 'streaks' - using the same technique as above, the streaks haven't disappeared!

    B&W seems easier at the mo!

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Anon Ymous View Post
    All films have AH layer. C41, E6 etc are no exceptions. The other MP films you mention have remjet coating. It might function as an AH layer, but it's not just for that.
    Efke IR820 Aura B&W Infrared does not have AH backing. No, I'm not smart - just happened to have found it out trying to find a film similar to HIE.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 Olives View Post
    Efke IR820 Aura B&W Infrared does not have AH backing. No, I'm not smart - just happened to have found it out trying to find a film similar to HIE.
    I see where nickrapak pointed this out in an earlier post - proof that I wasn't lying when I said I'm not smart.

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by 3 Olives View Post
    I see where nickrapak pointed this out in an earlier post - proof that I wasn't lying when I said I'm not smart.
    I don't know. In a gin martini you would be just about right!

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  9. #19
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    When I pre-soak my Kodak Portra 160VC in distilled water for 5 min in the rotating Jobo tank at 100F before replacing the pre-soak with developer, the pre-soak comes out colored a deep red/brown. I've always assumed that that was the anti-halation layer dissolved.

  10. #20
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    The color coming out during the prewash is mainly due to acutance dyes and trimmer dyes. The latter adjust the speeds of the 3 layers or trim them, to assure an exact speed to the film and an exact speed relationship between layers. The acutance dyes enhance sharpness by reducing the effects of turbidity in the coating.

    PE

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