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  1. #21
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Well, I have to add that the 3 bath kit must include a stabilzer with current E6 films if you are to avoid serious image stability problems.
    It does, it's just not counted in Tetenal's bath count. For all practical purposes, the 3 bath kit has 4 bathes. Their technical support said the stabilizer is important but doesn't develop the film, hence the 3 bath designation.

  2. #22
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Well, to be technical, the bleach-fix does not "develop the film" either but is included in the count.

    PE

  3. #23

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    Why not use the full 6(7 including stabilizer) bath Kodak E6 kit?

    Tom

  4. #24
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tom Kershaw View Post
    Why not use the full 6(7 including stabilizer) bath Kodak E6 kit?
    • I can't find this 6 bath kit here in central europe
    • Why mess around with 7 bathes if 4 do the job very well?


    @PE: Yes, but one could argue that BX does a lot more to the appearance of the slide than STAB does, at least in the short run.

  5. #25

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    Hello All,
    Quote Originally Posted by Raphael View Post
    Hi everyone,

    It'd very surprising to me, because, the one and only version of Tetenal E6 booklet I ever seen was the one translated in the link given by David. I use with very satisfiying result (to me), the following times for First Developer :
    Sorry if I seem to beat a dead horse, here, but I checked, to be sure, the last Tetenal instruction booklet I got with my last 5L kit (bought in June). And I made a mistake, this is not the one translated by David Richert. This last page seems in fact coming from a manual for E6 3 baths from the Jobo site.

    In the booklet, we can see :
    FD time : 6:15 (15s increment if reused)
    CD time : 6:00
    BX time : 6:00

    But under the table, they add something likes "For rotary processing machine, use prewarm at 39°C and FD time of 7 minutes And as Rudeofus says : there is no mention of extra time for Fuji films.

    So, again we fall in : The FD time don't seems to be so important !!!

    Regards,

    Raphael

  6. #26

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    The proof of the pudding, is in the pudding !

    Hello all,

    When we had this discussion, I promised myself to test different FD development times for Provia 100F, using my Jobo ATL-1.

    So, I taken my GF Camera and tripod on my shoulder, and expose a few 4x5 sheet-film of Fuji Provia 100F...

    Here are the resulting scans (sorry, it's a little quick and dirty, I'm afraid)

    Ex 1:


    FD Time : 7m30s; CD Time : 6m; BX Time : 6m
    (Theses are times I used to...)
    Freshly prepared working chemicals, two 4x5 sheets processed at a time in a 2523 tank.


    Ex 2:



    FD Time : 6m15s; CD Time : 6m; BX Time : 6m
    (Booklet recommended time)
    Reused chemicals (2 4x5 sheets already processed), two 4x5 sheets processed at a time in a 2523 tank.

    Shots data : Film rated @100Iso, handheld incident lightmeter (Gossen Lunasix 3).
    Scans data : Epson 4990, using profiling generated with Wolf Faust target for Provia 100F.

    The #2 image, is a bit "burned" in the sky, although this is not that obvious, when on the light table.

    So it's now clear for me, even with my Jobo, the "good" FD time for Provia (and for the other Fuji film) is rather on the 6m15s side that to the 7m30s.

    Any comment welcome,

    Regards,

    Raphael

  7. #27
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Raphael;

    These are very good, but without references to a true E6 process we cannot be sure of overall image quality. I think it is good, but I cannot prove it.

    Nevertheless, good work.

    PE

  8. #28
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Raphael View Post

    So it's now clear for me, even with my Jobo, the "good" FD time for Provia (and for the other Fuji film) is rather on the 6m15s side that to the 7m30s.

    Any comment welcome,

    Regards,

    Raphael
    It could be that you need a shorter first developer time in a Jobo than I use with an inversion tank, because of the difference in agitation methods. It's also possible that underdevelopment is compensating for overexposure, which could be due to metering method or a sluggish shutter, so you may want to check that. In any case, this demonstrates that everyone needs to test these things for themselves to be sure they're getting the best results with their own methods.
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  9. #29

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    Thanks

    Hi all,

    @PE : I am most flattered of theses words, from whom I consider a guru Thanks you.

    @David : I tried to keep the exposure very controlled : The light that sunny day was pretty equal and steady, almost stunning for Brittany ; I double each shot, with a different f-stop/shutter couple, for the same EI of 20 (with my handheld meter). Then each pairs was processed with the different FD time. I notice no difference between shots from the same pair, at least over the light table.
    However, to be sure, I will test my Copal-1 shutter, I tinkered recently a speedmeter with my PC. Thanks for your reply.

    I made a mistake writing my above post : please read "The *#1* image, is a bit "burned" in the sky,...".

    Seeing now the scans within Firefox, I am not very satisfyed with #2 image color rendering. I think I messed up with color space somewhere in PS

    Regards,

    Raphael

  10. #30
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    Tetenal E-6 in HP tanks anyone?

    I am completely new to processing color slides, but my local lab in Amsterdam doesn't do my 4x5 Kodak Ektachrome 100 Plus Readyloads anymore and I have about 56 left. So I got myself a Tetenal E-6 three bath kit.
    The manual gives times for inversion and rotary processing, which may work for my Honeywell Nikor 4x5 metal tank, but it's a dog to load properly and it always produces undeveloped spots where the film hits the retaining spring on the outside of the cage.
    Can anyone tell me whether, and how, I should correct the times given by Tetenal and/or the inversion frequency when using 4x5 sheets in HP tanks? And while I'm the subject: Tetenal says that the pre-wash and first developer must be used in total darkness, implying that the color developer etc. can be used with an open tank and the lights on. To someone who has only done B&W it seems a little scary to develop film in anything else than total darkness. So, to lend a quote from Marathon Man: "Is it safe?".

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