Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 75,273   Posts: 1,660,819   Online: 885
      
Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 37
  1. #11
    Ektagraphic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Southeastern Massachusetts
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,869
    Images
    23
    If you could get your hands on some Kodachrome I would go for it. If not, I would pick up some Elite Chrome.
    Helping to save analog photography one exposure at a time

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Greece
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    1,322
    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    Use optical printing only and then the problem does not occur.

    Steve
    I've seen the cyan skies associated with Ektar 100 at the web, but the only time I used it, the prints looked good. No cyan skies whatsoever. I don't know what gear the lab used, I can only say that the back of the prints had "NNNN" and the frame number printed at the back. So, I assume that they only corrected for the orange mask, not even for brightness.

  3. #13
    Ektagraphic's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Southeastern Massachusetts
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,869
    Images
    23
    I have had pretty bad lab prints made with Ektar 100. I have also had had great results. The cyan color is a problem though. When I get into color it will be a true test of film.
    Helping to save analog photography one exposure at a time

  4. #14
    johnny9fingers's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    NW Wisconsin hard by the shore of Lake Superior
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    108
    Images
    5
    If I was to use Provia, is it a true 100 speed film? I've seen posts where people talk about the true speed of films, such as Delta 3200 being closer to 1250. Is the only way to determine the true speed experimentation or is there a chart somewhere?
    Never met a camera I didn't like...
    Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/j9fingers/

  5. #15
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2003
    Location
    NH - Live Free or Die
    Shooter
    Large Format
    Posts
    1,758
    Blog Entries
    1
    Images
    18
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny9fingers View Post
    If I was to use Provia, is it a true 100 speed film? I've seen posts where people talk about the true speed of films, such as Delta 3200 being closer to 1250. Is the only way to determine the true speed experimentation or is there a chart somewhere?
    It will depend on your equipment and metering technique. However Provia is a true 100 speed film for me, as are all 100 speed slide films I have tried.

    I would choose my film based on how I was going to get prints. Using slide film you will almost certainly be getting digital prints, or just scanned images. You could also spring for Ilfochrome, but it's hard to find and now inexpensive.

    If you go for a negative film you will have a lot more printing choices, and they will be less costly. Also, keep in mind that slide film has a limited latitude. Negative film will be more forgiving. If you must shoot during the day when the contrast is high, I would skip the slide film. I am finding I am shooting less and less slide, and more negatives. The fact that my results have improved is the driving force for this.

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Oz
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    481
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny9fingers View Post
    I haven't shot with film (except Polaroid) for a while and am asking for advice on a good film to shoot fall color landscapes. I will be using my Hexar AF. Right now was thinking of using Fuji Portrait as they are slower films, and would work good with the Hexars limited shutter speeds outdoors. Are there other choices that might be better???
    Thanks,
    John
    Look, I'm only a "happy snapper", but I have been more than happy with Fujicolor Superia Extra 400 ISO and with Kodak Ultramax ISO 400.

    For extra "punch" I have used a Didymium "enhancing" (red) filter, but the straight film properly exposed is practically as good.

  7. #17
    JBrunner's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    6,800
    Quote Originally Posted by johnny9fingers View Post
    If I was to use Provia, is it a true 100 speed film? I've seen posts where people talk about the true speed of films, such as Delta 3200 being closer to 1250. Is the only way to determine the true speed experimentation or is there a chart somewhere?
    Most will find E-6 films true to box speed, as they are not willing victims to so many exposure and processing variables as a b&W stock. Some people like to slightly under expose chrome, but it is a fine line, having little margin for error. For fall colors I find the old Velvia 50 hard to beat. You can always lower the saturation in the print to where you like it. Adding saturation to a print that isn't coming from Velvia doesn't seem to work as well for me as the reverse.

    Judging the palate of chrome films is very subjective however, and shooting a variety for yourself to see what you like is my very best recommendation.
    That's just, like, my opinion, man...

  8. #18
    CuS
    CuS is offline

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    135
    kodachrome - seriously - you cannot imagine . . .

  9. #19
    EASmithV's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Maryland
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,925
    Blog Entries
    4
    Images
    128
    If you want the colors to pick you up and kick you in the balls, use Velvia 50.

    Kodachrome is also one of the more beautiful options.
    www.EASmithV.com

    "The camera is an instrument that teaches people how to see without a camera."— Dorothea Lange
    http://www.flickr.com/easmithv/
    RIP Kodachrome

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Eastern Kansas
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    302
    Images
    1
    No one has mentioned E100VS. Is that not a good choice? I've just begun using it since Kodachrome is going away and really like it, but I did recently shoot some flowers in bright sunlight that were over saturated to the point that detail seemed to be lost. It seems to be a pretty high contrast film.

    Dave

Page 2 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin