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  1. #11
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by keithwms View Post
    Not to start a brand war here but Ektar does not render skies correctly IMHO. I got cyan... not the strong deep blue typical of a fall sky, the strong blue that you need to set off the red and yellow leaf colours. One could of course filter to correct the cyan issue, but then what happens to the reds and yellows... Maybe somebody else has solved this (without photoshop) but I could not.
    Use optical printing only and then the problem does not occur.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  2. #12
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Color films for Fall colors are Kodak Ultracolor 160 [35mm], Ultracolor 400 [35mm], Portra Vivid Color 160, Portra Vivid Color 400, Ektar 100.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  3. #13
    Ektagraphic's Avatar
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    If you could get your hands on some Kodachrome I would go for it. If not, I would pick up some Elite Chrome.
    Helping to save analog photography one exposure at a time

  4. #14

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sirius Glass View Post
    Use optical printing only and then the problem does not occur.

    Steve
    I've seen the cyan skies associated with Ektar 100 at the web, but the only time I used it, the prints looked good. No cyan skies whatsoever. I don't know what gear the lab used, I can only say that the back of the prints had "NNNN" and the frame number printed at the back. So, I assume that they only corrected for the orange mask, not even for brightness.

  5. #15
    Ektagraphic's Avatar
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    I have had pretty bad lab prints made with Ektar 100. I have also had had great results. The cyan color is a problem though. When I get into color it will be a true test of film.
    Helping to save analog photography one exposure at a time

  6. #16
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    I have only gotten cyan skies when I scanned a perfectly healthy negative. Period.

    YMMV

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  7. #17
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    If I was to use Provia, is it a true 100 speed film? I've seen posts where people talk about the true speed of films, such as Delta 3200 being closer to 1250. Is the only way to determine the true speed experimentation or is there a chart somewhere?
    Never met a camera I didn't like...
    Flickr: http://www.flickr.com/photos/j9fingers/

  8. #18
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny9fingers View Post
    If I was to use Provia, is it a true 100 speed film? I've seen posts where people talk about the true speed of films, such as Delta 3200 being closer to 1250. Is the only way to determine the true speed experimentation or is there a chart somewhere?
    It will depend on your equipment and metering technique. However Provia is a true 100 speed film for me, as are all 100 speed slide films I have tried.

    I would choose my film based on how I was going to get prints. Using slide film you will almost certainly be getting digital prints, or just scanned images. You could also spring for Ilfochrome, but it's hard to find and now inexpensive.

    If you go for a negative film you will have a lot more printing choices, and they will be less costly. Also, keep in mind that slide film has a limited latitude. Negative film will be more forgiving. If you must shoot during the day when the contrast is high, I would skip the slide film. I am finding I am shooting less and less slide, and more negatives. The fact that my results have improved is the driving force for this.

  9. #19

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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny9fingers View Post
    I haven't shot with film (except Polaroid) for a while and am asking for advice on a good film to shoot fall color landscapes. I will be using my Hexar AF. Right now was thinking of using Fuji Portrait as they are slower films, and would work good with the Hexars limited shutter speeds outdoors. Are there other choices that might be better???
    Thanks,
    John
    Look, I'm only a "happy snapper", but I have been more than happy with Fujicolor Superia Extra 400 ISO and with Kodak Ultramax ISO 400.

    For extra "punch" I have used a Didymium "enhancing" (red) filter, but the straight film properly exposed is practically as good.

  10. #20
    JBrunner's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny9fingers View Post
    If I was to use Provia, is it a true 100 speed film? I've seen posts where people talk about the true speed of films, such as Delta 3200 being closer to 1250. Is the only way to determine the true speed experimentation or is there a chart somewhere?
    Most will find E-6 films true to box speed, as they are not willing victims to so many exposure and processing variables as a b&W stock. Some people like to slightly under expose chrome, but it is a fine line, having little margin for error. For fall colors I find the old Velvia 50 hard to beat. You can always lower the saturation in the print to where you like it. Adding saturation to a print that isn't coming from Velvia doesn't seem to work as well for me as the reverse.

    Judging the palate of chrome films is very subjective however, and shooting a variety for yourself to see what you like is my very best recommendation.

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