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  1. #1

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    Kodak E6 single-use: Dark slides

    Earlier I've been using Tetenals E6 kit with satisfaction, but last time I decided to pick up the Kodak E6 single-use kit just to try it out (mostly because I've read that it's superier to the Tetenal kit).

    The problem I see though is that my slides turn out rather dark. I've just started to increase the development time slightly, but I don't really see any difference.

    I use a Jobo ATL-1500 to process the film, and I try to make sure the temperature of the first was is 38 degrees. Will wash water-temperature affect the density of my slides? I use the standard times for a rotary processor mentioned in the manual.

    Anyone got any ideas what might be wrong here?

    The Tetenal slides are bright and nice.

  2. #2
    dwdmguy's Avatar
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    I use the Kodak E6 one shot kit with great results. May I ask what your time is on the 1500 (I'm using the 2300)

    When you state wash water, do you mean the final stab or rinse water between chems.

    ALSO, very important, did you follow the mixing directions on the Kodak box exactly? i.e., x00ml of water first then chem, mix, then fill to desired amount with water, mix? Also important with the A/B dev, i.e., Water, Chem A, Mix, Chem B,Mix. You must follow these exactly.

  3. #3

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    I mean the rinse water between the chemicals.

    And yes, I'm try to follow the instructions as exactly as I can.


    I use the exact times described in the manual. 6:00 for first developer

  4. #4
    dwdmguy's Avatar
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    E6 first dev should be 6:30

  5. #5

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    Oh. OK. I re-checked my manual and it said first developer should be "6:00 to 7:00". With a note that you can vary from 5 to 8 1/2. I probably interpreted that as 6:00 plus that the E6 program on my Jobo was already programmed to that.

    I'll try to 6:30 next time. Thanks for the help.

  6. #6
    dwdmguy's Avatar
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    Great, I'm glad you've found it.
    Happy shooting and developing.

  7. #7

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    Fuji film generally required an extra 15% time in development. I use 6:45 in the Kodak kit. I could probably go a bit longer but I like to maintain saturation and prefer adding more light to bring out the shadows (I view them backlit). Also, you mention 'wash water'. You should not wash between each step. The steps are designed to *require* some contamination between steps to work properly. The only wash should be after first developer (to remove developer and stop the development process) and after the fixer stage.

  8. #8
    dwdmguy's Avatar
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    The fixer (your sixth chem) should be rinsed for 4:00 min.

    If you have a small drum you could try one roll at 6:30 and the other at 6:45 (I have found that re-using the Kodak E6 works fine if used right away) and see what you like.

    Again, it is super important that you follow the rules exactly i.e., 200ml of water, chem, finish with your desired level of chem to, for example, 1000ml. This with mixing at each of these steps. Don't let the Jobo do it for you as it will seperate in the holding bottle and the draw tube sucks from the bottom.

  9. #9

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    Ran a sheet of Provia 100F in 6:45 and it turned out great! Thanks for all the help.

  10. #10
    dwdmguy's Avatar
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    That's great news! Enjoy.
    I'm having a ball with chrome. IMO, it blows away any digital format that I've ever seen including the P65 back.

    Nothing to do with a film v. digital debate, for me, and I understand that to be competitive pro's must use digital, but for those that wish the very best, have the time and don't have to compete, "I" could go no other way but film and chrome.

    I'm glad your ok with this.
    Tom

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