Thanks for the detailed explanation, mtjade2007.
Is this the correct developer?????
Originally Posted by stradibarrius
I found it a B&H for $7.50 and 1 qt. makes 17.8 gals.
* B&H# KOFDSQ * Mfr# * 1953009
I looked up B&H to see this item. It is a Kodak C-41 Developer Starter. It is not the same as a C-41 developer. You need to have a developer replenisher first. To make a C-41 developer you mix developer replenisher with small amount of starter and some water. Here is a 5 gallon package of C-41 developer replenisher. The price is $29.95. Unfortunately B&H will not ship this item.
* B&H # KOFDR5G * Mfr # 1919042
The photos of the chemicals at B&H site are not actual photos of the chemicals. They are mostly wrong. For example a C-41 developer replenisher should contain 3 bottles, Part A B and C, not 4 bottles as shown at the site. Most photos are not correct, some are not even close.
B&H appears to not ship almost all film chemicals. If you are near New York City you are lucky. You may need to talk to your local photography store that sells some chemicals. They can order Kodak chemicals for you. I deal with a mini lab wholesale supplier. I provided a number of California Sales Permit (easy to get, costs almost nothing) and a business name (I own it, but not a mini lab). The wholesale supplier has a will call department. I went there to pick up my chemical order as small as $10 at one time. If they ask you about the kind of processor you use just tell them you have a Jobo ATL. Not because it matters. Just so that they won't feel you are just trying to buy wholesale as an individual.
Last edited by mtjade2007; 10-14-2009 at 01:38 AM. Click to view previous post history.
Bumping this again because now that I've finally processed some rolls the chemicals are a bit more clear to me, but I still have some questions.
I'm in New York and it seems Adorama has everything necessary while B&H is all special-order (surprising).
So the questions:
1) You don't need both stabilizer and rinse, right? I'm currently using stabilizer with my Tetenal kit but people who are using Kodak seem to only be using rinse, even though Kodak produces a stabilizer chemical. Is it an either/or thing??
2) Bleach is special order at both Adorama and B&H. The price is a significant difference ($13) which is usually not the case between these stores, which makes me question are these really the same thing? Understood that Kodak's photos may be incorrect, but both say they make 1 gallon.
3) Bleach replenisher through all the normal online stores is crazy expensive, but this: http://cgi.ebay.com/Color-Negative-C...item4cea6be6e6 can be used to replenish the Kodak Flexicolor bleach, correct?
4) I'm confused as to why developer starter and replenisher are separate, bleach and bleach replenisher are separate, but fixer is apparently fixer/replenisher in one. Just want to make sure there isn't a "fixer starter" that for some reason isn't available to buy.
You can use either stabilzer or final rinse on modern color films in C-41, but with films pre about 2005, you must use the stabilzer. The dye set changed and this changed the way the dyes are stabilzed and the film is protected. Make sure you use the correct final chemical with your C-41 films.
Starters are not needed for anything actually except for the developer replenisher in order to pre-season it. Kodak sells a plain Developer for C41 which is used without replenisher or starter for small tank processing.
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Thanks for clearing up the stablizer/rinse thing! As for the developer...if you WANTED to use replenisher, can you buy that later and replenish the plain developer with it, or does the replenisher only work with starter? Mainly just out of curiosity, as the local shops don't sell the regular Flexicolor developer anyway.
Oh, and I poked around more on B&H and now see the same bleach starter there. The other bottle that was more expensive was plain Bleach III.
If you run a single use C-41 process, you need either fresh developer each time, or you need fresh developer replenisher + starter each time, or you can run mutiple uses of the developer conditions above, but you must change developer times as noted on the Kodak and Fuji web sites.
OTOH, you can run a seasoned process by starting with a tank of Developer Replenisher + starter and then using replenisher after each process, adding replenisher based on the time / square footage tables on the Kodak or Fuji web sites. In this case, you never exhaust the tank, you just replenish and you do not change the development time at all.
This goes back to my answer of your other question in the other thread.
I have been in contact with Sherry at Photographer's Formulary since last March about their C-41 chemistry. Here is the latest email I just received from her dated October 27th.
- HI Stephen
What we are going to be selling is Kodak's C-41 chemistry but it will be packaged to make 1 liter of working solution. So the instructions you have for the Kodak will work as far as steps. It will consist of the developer bleach and fix I'm not sure about the stabilizer I don't think we are doing that portion with the stuff we have.
Please email Sherry at email@example.com and express your interest in their efforts.
Furthermore, you can get Kodak C41 Flexicolor SM developer for mini labs that makes a 2 L batch. It is the same chemistry as the one gallon mix that Kodak discontinued. It is a one shot developer that will work just fine with JOBO drums. B&H does not carry it, and it is hard to find, but I have a source for those that are interested as follows:
- Denver Pro Photo
235 S Cherokee St.
Denver CO 80223
Phone: 303-698-1790 or 866-360-4940
Ask for Victor Guarino. He will take care of you. They will ship the stuff anywhere.
Here is the C41 chemistry I purchase from Denver Pro Photo with volumes and prices:
- Kodak Flexicolor SM Develper 2L $15.92
- Kodak Indicator Stop 16 oz. $7.25
- Trebla Beach 5L $31.16
- Trebla Fixer 5L $4.75
- Kodak Final Rinse 5L $6.25
Hope this helps...
For those of you who want to batch up your development jobs and save chemistry, I have done some testing in this area. I have found that there is NO difference between film just exposed and developed immediately, and film that was exposed a year before it was developed.
Based on my testing, I only develop my film once a year, and have had no problems. I shoot all spring, summer, and fall and then develop all of my film at once in November. This affords me the time to make a test run before I process the real stuff just to make sure everything is working properly.
Originally Posted by stevewillard
most people on here aren't that patient :rolleyes:. I know I'm not