Load your reels, drop onto spindle and stick them in a dark drawer, old paper envelope etc that it safe to keep out light. Lights on for a bit
Have your e-6 chems tempering, and up to temp. Take the tank and funnel, fill it with tempering water, and drop it into the tempering tank for a few seconds to pre warm it. Drain it. Turn off lights, and promptly drop the spindle and reels into it. Click light lock funnel into place, and stick the swirly agitation stick in Pour in first developer, start timer, and lower the tank into the tempering bath.
Swirl agitate. Inversion agitation with the funnel area found in this tank type can lead to loss of developer activity due to aerial oxidation. Pull tank from tempering bath to drain it.
Paterson tanks can work better than stainless, at least in the speed with which they can be drained and filled.
Is there any way that I will mange to develop 120 roll of slide in E6 method on Peterson hand tank?
You do not even need a tank if you are good in the dark. In a grad school project, I souped thousands of frames with E6 in plastic juice containers with multiple reels strung on straightened out coat hangers. As stated, temp control is very importantm especiall first developer and color developer.
Tim- Can I wash after first developer with water standing in the tank (at 38c) and only agitate?
When I was doing it with a Paterson I always used a running water wash, but only because I could to be honest (my mixer tap was surprisingly accurate,) but there's no reason you can't do washes that way.
I've just grabbed the leaflet that comes with the Kodak E6 kit that I use these days and that says:
Two short 20-30 second washes followed by a third 1-minute wash most resembles a continuous a 2 minute continuous wash [sic]
If you use the water out of the bath obviously make sure you've got enough to still keep everything warm for the remainder of the process - I personally wouldn't return the wash water back to the bath!
Another day goes under; a little bourbon will take the strain...