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  1. #11
    Oye
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    I recently bought a 1 liter Tetenal mono kit that should be quite fresh, as it came directly from the store. But the blix was crystallized and hard as stone in a 0,5 cm layer on the bottom of the bottle. I managed to dissolve it and have used it for some prints, but the the result is not satisfying, the light parts are a little greyish. This is quite different form my earlier experiences with this product, the prints were brilliant. Maybe color printing has become a rare activity and the chemistry kits grow old on the shelves of the sellers.

  2. #12
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Oye View Post
    Maybe color printing has become a rare activity and the chemistry kits grow old on the shelves of the sellers.
    I suspect that's the truth of the matter.

    I used a single solution Blix right from it's release in the early 80's up until about 5 years ago with no problems with C41 or RA-4, I only switched to a two part blix for RA-4 because the Tetenal Minilab kits were so much cheaper.

    Ian

  3. #13
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    At Kodak, AFAIK, all efforts to produce a stable single part RA blix did not work for all of the reasons stated above. By the time the Blix reached the customer it would be cloudy, crystals may have formed, and the Dmin of the print would be brown, yellow or orange. Some silver and silver halide might remain to discolor the print with keeping.

    So, from reports I have seen here, I would not recommend single part kits of Developer or Blix. From my direct experience at EK, they have limited shelf life and lab life after dilution. However, my tests were all run on raw formulations compounded from a variety of patents for testing blix rate, development rate, and shelf life.

    In another thread, someone reported that they had gotten a note from one company that stated that there was a problem as described but that it was now solved. IDK. If you wish to keep testing it, you may find this to be true.

    Since my initial work, I have discovered a method to make a one part blix kit for film and paper, but I regard a 1 part developer to still be impossible.

    PE
    Last edited by Photo Engineer; 10-24-2009 at 03:30 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: corrected ambiguity

  4. #14

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    I'm using the mono kit made by Fotospeed in a Nova slot processor. Very concious that my prints may be subpar but as this is my first try at RA4, I've got no standard to compare against. That said, they look nice to me.

    I'd try the 2-part kit from Kodak but when I checked I couldn't tell if it would work at room temperature (~18C).

  5. #15
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    The Kodak RA-RT developer replenisher and RA blix work at 68 F or 20 C.

    PE

  6. #16

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    Thanks for the clarification. I think I'll try the Kodak next and compare results with the mono kit.

  7. #17
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    As you live in the UK, buy these: http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/process-ra4-117-c.asp . Developer and blix. I didn't buy starter at all because it's said that you can just use replenisher. It works. I use 2 mins at room temp (23...25C) for both dev and blix as PE suggested. Great results.

    I also made side-to-side comparison with Tetenal mono kit. Differences are so small that it's hard to see. BUT, that Tetenal blix was okay when I made the test. It goes bad easily. That's the problem with it.

  8. #18

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    Thanks hrst. The link to Ag photographic is where I was looking, but wasn't sure about room temp results. I just bought some paper from Ag photographic: great service!

  9. #19
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    There are a few reports here on APUG that Fuji CA paper does not work as well as Kodak Endura at 20 deg C. I have never verified this, but I do caution you that it may be the case.

    PE

  10. #20

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    Thanks for that. Currently I'm using Ektacolor Edge and I've got some boxes of Endura now. I decided to standardise on the Kodak after reading posts here and unless there is an actual discontinuation, I'll be sticking with one manufacturer.

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