Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 73,059   Posts: 1,611,248   Online: 853
      
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 23
  1. #11
    Athiril's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Melbourne, Vic, Australia
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    2,724
    Images
    28
    When it gets too old - you can use it as a colour developer in colour reversal and just let it sit for a fair bit longer too completion - I got decently accruate results with Rodinal (first dev)/C41 (colour dev) for Astia, wacky results for C41 xpro'ed as reversal in C41 though...

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    South Norfolk, United Kingdom
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,926
    Images
    68
    I've just processed 3 rolls of C-41 120 format. The temperature pre-programmed on the Jobo is set at 38.0ºC.

    Tom

  3. #13
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    23,940
    Images
    65
    Tom, that may account for the temperature drop as the water is recirculated.

    However, another thought struck me. All thermometers have an immersion depth marked on them, which should be the length of the thermometer submerged in the liquid being measured. This is usuall (in the US) 2", 3" or TI (Total Immersion). If you don't follow the guide marked on the thermometer, then the reading will not be as accurate as it could be and this may explain some reported differences.

    IDK how this applies to stainless steel stem thermometers, but I have seen differences based on depth of solution being measured.

    PE

  4. #14

    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1
    I have a question about my old JOBO-tank (CPA). Normally the part where the bottles are in and the part were the tank "rolls" are connected and the water runs through and you have in both parts the same temperature. But last night, i noticed that that wasn't the case anymore with my tank and the part with the chemicals was warming up and the other part wasn't. I'd like to ask if that would have a consequence for developing my negatives (120, color, Tetenal). And does anyone know how i could resolve it, there's probably dirt in the part inbetween how could I make it free again? Thanks!

  5. #15

    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Allentown PA area
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    374
    I'm glad this thread was resurrected. Currently I am using a digital temperature controller wired to an outlet and a fish tank heater for my C-41 and am curious about either calibrating it or purchasing something. When I develop myself, my negatives come out with a magenta haze over everything,and some very extreme grain. I'm guessing it's the temperature. Should I invest in a true PID controller instead?

  6. #16
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    23,940
    Images
    65
    C41 is best when all of the temps are at the values in the instructions. If you vary, you get results that are off the norm.

    Any action to bring the temps in-line will help.

    PE

  7. #17
    CHX
    CHX is offline

    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Location
    UK
    Shooter
    35mm
    Posts
    27
    How do people get the temperature that accurate? With colour I tend to wind up crossing my fingers and hoping, as I have never found a foolproof way of keeping the temp within +/-2c of where it's meant to me. Admittedly this was in my kitchen at home using a kettle and bucket of hot water when the chemical bottles wedged in it.
    ~ Sign the petition: We want Aerochrome! ~

  8. #18

    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    South Norfolk, United Kingdom
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,926
    Images
    68
    With regard to processing in a new Jobo CPP-3 which is less sophisticated compared to the ATL-2300, I tend to leave the machine running with tempered chemistry for a while (e.g. 30mins to 1 hour) before running a batch of film.

    Tom

  9. #19
    bvy
    bvy is offline

    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Pittsburgh
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    1,063
    Images
    42
    Quote Originally Posted by CHX View Post
    How do people get the temperature that accurate? With colour I tend to wind up crossing my fingers and hoping, as I have never found a foolproof way of keeping the temp within +/-2c of where it's meant to me. Admittedly this was in my kitchen at home using a kettle and bucket of hot water when the chemical bottles wedged in it.
    Images of Goldberg Machines in people's bathrooms to process C-41 is, I think, what puts a lot of people off to ever trying it. I use a simple water bath at a particular temperature in a Playmate cooler, and a few tempering prewashes in my Paterson tank. The developer goes in at 101F and, every time, comes out at 99F. I figure a loss of one degree with each pour (developer in, developer out). That's close enough to 100F for me. To try to put more control around this is splitting hairs that I can't even see.

    What's important to me relative to this is that I get results that I can easily print without dialing in crazy filtrations. And I do.

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Dec 2009
    Location
    Monroe, NY USA
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    97
    I also get good temperature control using a small 6-pack cooler. I bring the empty tank containing the reels/films to the developing temperature by starting with water 2-3 degrees higher than the developing temperature in the cooler. I monitor the cooler water temperature with a digital thermometer with a wire probe (calibrated to my Paterson color thermometer), adding hotter water to the cooler until the cooler water temperature is constant at the developing temperature (takes 30-40 minutes while I measure out and filter the chemicals). This equilibrium indicates the tank is at the right temperature. Then bring the pre-wash water, developer, and blix to the developing temperature in a separate water bath. Place the tank in the cooler when not agitating and continue to maintain the right temperature in the cooler during the pre-soak and developer steps. The blix step can be +/- and stabilizer is at room temperature. Results are great.

Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin