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  1. #111
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    When you light fog any color reversal material, you should expose the front and the back to get proper re-exposure.

    PE

  2. #112

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    Thanks for idea about front and back re-ex I try it tomorrow. Here is my today best result Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	51830 at now I don't like black borders it's dark but not black. Red-brown but not black, and I don't know how to get black bordersI try re-ex 10 min and 20 min and don't see any differences. I think re-ex need to do until paper become pink after that moment re-ex doesn't work.

  3. #113
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    Have you tried adding hypo (sodium thiosulphate) to the First Developer? Kodak Supra Endura can benefit a little bit from a tiny amount (0.10 g/l or so), but I found that Fuji Crystal Archive really needs it to get proper blacks (I got greenish-gray without it), and at much higher concentration than Kodak Supra Endura. I don't remember the exact numbers but you can try at 1 g/l. It may be easiest to prepare a 10% solution first if you don't have an accurate scale. These numbers are for pentahydrate version.

    Adding that hypo might fix both blacks and cyan forehead! If not, add more. If you add too much, you will be making the image too contrasty and kind of posterized.

    If hypo doesn't fix it, then it's probably the balance of bromide -- too low, you won't have good blacks (I tested with ZERO bromide and got bright red or yellow depending on hypo), too high, you won't get good whites. Of course, if you have both problems at the same time, then you have to find another solution than just adjusting bromide.

    One fun thing in this process is that nothing goes as expected. When I say how hypo and bromide levels affect images, I mean how they affected the images when I tested them. It is very well possible that we are using different versions of the paper, etc. Kodak and Fuji naturally only test their product in normal RA-4 process and they can make radical modifications in grain structure etc. which can affect the reversal process without affecting the normal process.

    Don't waste your precious time re-exposing for 10 or 20 minutes. Using a 100W bulb or comparable from a distance of 20-30 cm or so, something around 3-4 minutes is DEFINITELY enough. If I remember correctly, I tested 30 seconds with a 60W bulb and found out it was not enough but it came close, and 1 minute has always been enough for me for both Kodak and Fuji paper.
    Last edited by hrst; 05-30-2012 at 07:52 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  4. #114

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    I add 0.2 gr of sodium thiosulphate. today I try to add more. I fog paper until it become pink and I don't use acid stop bath. It is really hard to fog paper after stop bath, it works like fixer.

  5. #115

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    What about making a (slighly contrastier?) unsharp mask and selectively toning its dense portions? That would effectively result in a mask which could warm the highlights, in addition to lowering contrast. This is just an idea, seeing how my latest landscape reversal print turned out - almost good! I used highly diluted Ilford PQ paper dev and a pinch of Rodinal and the highlights were closer to neutral than cyan. But on the original transparency they were ochre-reddish (late afternoon sun-bathed stone houses).

  6. #116
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sergejs Orlovskis View Post
    I tried Reversal RA4 on Fuji crystal archive paper and I can't get colour positive. 1 bw developer work's great and I get normal BW image but after that I wash the image pre flash it with 60 watt bulb for 2 min> And after that put image in the colour developer (developer I use is Fujifilm enviriprint MP160) and nothing happens. What is my mistake ? Developer is fresh and when I put to the developer sheet of RA4 paper on light it became black. I can get BW image with looks that Attachment 51466 but in color developer nothing hannend
    old thread but you need to wash dont use stop

  7. #117
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    Hi Athiril,

    I have used old Agfa and newer Fuji colour papers (can't remember the actual paper details) without any issues. The B&W developer I use is Dektol, I use a stopbath (1.5 lt water and a splash of vinegar), and Tetenal RA4 chems used cool as I have a fixed speed Durst RCP20. My times are B&W developer 3mins, Stop 30 secs, lights on for 60 secs, the paper staying in the stop while lights on, plunge into fresh water then into the Durst. It has 2.5 min to travel through each of the RA4 chemsitry.

    I will have to confirm if I dilute the Dektol or not. I found if I did not stop the development of the B&W developer the image would process white (I could see the image turning black in a water bath with the lights on) the vinegar I found to be just right for my environment. My agfa paper gives me a straw coloured base due to the age of it and thermal stressing it has seen. My lights are two 75W globes on the ceiling about 1.5m away from the developing bench. I try not to cast a shadow on the print while expose to light.
    Cheers - Andy C
    ---------------------

    16mm Cine, 35mm, 120, 5x4 & 7x5.

  8. #118

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    What do you mean by "two step wash"?

  9. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by shutterbug101 View Post
    What do you mean by "two step wash"?
    Who uses the two step wash?
    Cheers - Andy C
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    16mm Cine, 35mm, 120, 5x4 & 7x5.

  10. #120

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    What do you use for stop bath? Do you use normal black and white paper stop or just water?



 

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