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  1. #51
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    By enlarger printing, you will find that Endura requires about 100R additional filtration and up to 3 stops more exposure due to the nature of this reversal process.

    PE

  2. #52
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    When I tried shooting in camera it required tungsten filtration/light with a hefty filter pack of magenta and yellow. That was with strange fuji paper though. I used paper developer standard dilution (sprint 1:9) for 2 minutes.
    --Nicholas Andre

  3. #53

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    By enlarger printing, you will find that Endura requires about 100R additional filtration and up to 3 stops more exposure due to the nature of this reversal process.
    Yeah I think I'm actually converging on something similar to the above all right. It's a pity, I was hoping to shoot it at the same speed I'm shooting it as negative. It's looking more and more like the above though in terms of exposure & filtration. I have a few more sheets lined up for more testing this afternoon sometime hopefully.


    Just as a clarification though, red is equivalent to a matching combination of yellow and magenta, right ? So 50R =50Y+50M ?

  4. #54
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    Yes. 50R = 50Y + 50M

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  5. #55
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    If there was a lab that did this a a good price I would never shoot a color negative for quite a while!
    Helping to save analog photography one exposure at a time

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ektagraphic View Post
    If there was a lab that did this a a good price I would never shoot a color negative for quite a while!
    The results are not all equally good. Only some E6 shots are suitable for printing on cross processed Endura.

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  7. #57

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    Just a brief update. Having run through another iteration of this I'm finally just about there.

    This is the most acceptable of the filtering/exposure bracketing from the last few I did. Exposure and filtering data is contained in the picture, sort of like a proto-EXIF



    So, from messing around with the scan in PS, it think it needs a touch (maybe 20 or so) less magenta and maybe a smidgeon more yellow. Plus another 1/2 stop or so. I shot another at 6 under asa 4 and it was quite overexposed, so I reckon the combination of losing some of the magenta and another 1/2 stop or so should put it in the ballpark.

    Funnily enough, having re-read Bujor B's posts on photo.net again the other day, I've come close to just duplicating his data. But where's the fun in just copying someone elses findings, eh ?

  8. #58

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    I quite like that purple look

    Thanks for posting your results!

  9. #59

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    FWIW, I tried RA-4 reversal processing of prints made from some outdated Svema CO32D slide film that I shot a month or so ago. I've posted the result on Flickr. (The scan of the print is yellower than the actual print, although I deliberately left the print with a faint yellow cast.) You can see the negative scan (with color both corrected and uncorrected by the scanner software) on the same Flickr photostream. I'm going to have to look at the print for a while to be sure, but I think I like the effect for this shot.

    FWIW, I used DS-14 as my first developer. If I'd run across this thread before doing the print, I might have tried the developer suggested by hrst -- but as my goal wasn't exactly accurate color rendition, maybe I wouldn't have bothered. I'll have to give it a go sometime with more conventional slide films.

  10. #60

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    I tried Reversal RA4 on Fuji crystal archive paper and I can't get colour positive. 1 bw developer work's great and I get normal BW image but after that I wash the image pre flash it with 60 watt bulb for 2 min> And after that put image in the colour developer (developer I use is Fujifilm enviriprint MP160) and nothing happens. What is my mistake ? Developer is fresh and when I put to the developer sheet of RA4 paper on light it became black. I can get BW image with looks that Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	51466 but in color developer nothing hannend



 

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