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  1. #61
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    I have no idea. I have never used the Fuji chemistry, but it should work. If you overexpose, there will be no color image. And, remember, to test this out you must bleach and fix or blix the image.

    PE

  2. #62

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    Today I receive first colour positive picture the colours is worst but it is USSR made slide from middle 70 it is picture of my mum. Now I try to get picture from normal colour slide. If I understand write my problem was bad washing. After stop picture need to be washed in fresh running water for 5 or 10 minutes. I try to use 3 rinse wash (each 3 min) in Jobo processor but it is doesn't work it need to be removed from the drum and wash in fresh running water. Fuji paper and chemicals works but rinse is main problem now. Maybe someone have some idea.

  3. #63
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    The cycle I use at 20C is: Dektol 1:3 for 1-2 minutes, Stop 30" to 1', wash 1-2 min, re-expose, Color Develop 2', wash 30", blix 2 - 4 min.

    PE

  4. #64

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    I use 1st developer published by Hrst in first page and can get normal BW neg image without any problem but after stop I pull out paper and wash it in fresh running water on light 10 min. After that I put image in colour developer it' s develop but very bad. Maybe developer is dead ? When I redevelop normal RA4 developer become dark but in this process developer doesn't change colour and when I put little sheet of paper to the colour developer it become black and it is means developer works OK

  5. #65
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    Try to skip exposure completely. Just run an unexposed paper in the dark through 1st dev, wash, re-exp, RA-4. You should get a black paper if the process is optimal. In any case, you should get something quite dark.

    Your blix is not working, by the way, because you are having a silver negative.

    Test your RA-4 developer by exposing a piece of paper to light and running it through the ra-4 developer. You should get deep black paper.

  6. #66

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    I have another question. 1st development will be in totally dark or safe light might be used.

  7. #67

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    Ok I try to do this test tomorrow. My Bliks is works OK when I put image in to the BLIX after colour developer it's become white. But colour developer doesn't work normal after 10 min wash it develop image but it is looks that Click image for larger version. 

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  8. #68

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    I have been doing Dektol 1:2 for 3 minutes room teperature, rinse, re-expose (or reversal bath), Kodak RA4 25C for 1 minute, Blix 1 minute.

    Has worked great other than a mottled / fogged appearance. Which I am trying to figure out. I've determined it doesn't have to do with reversal (I think) as I don't get it when I use a reversal bath as opposed to re-exposure.

    As mentioned in another thread ( http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/1...g-fogging.html ), I have tried adding bromide, benzo. I've even tried development with Xtol, Rodinol 1:10. Basically trying anything I can to figure out what causes this mottling.

    Photo Engineer mentioned though he doesn't know what causes it, he has heard about it before. Especially on RC paper.

    I've tried running my B&W developer hot and pulling the development time back a bit and the mottling didn't appear as bad. May be on to something. Maybe not. They're obviously harder to see in shadows anyhow. Which may be what I am experienceing. But I do know that that's the time I need to develop it for the exposure I give it (shooting Crystal Archive Type II at ISO 16.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by boom_bass View Post
    Ok I try to do this test tomorrow. My Bliks is works OK when I put image in to the BLIX after colour developer it's become white. But colour developer doesn't work normal after 10 min wash it develop image but it is looks that Click image for larger version. 

Name:	irakli.jpg 
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ID:	51532
    This example has about 100M or R TOO MUCH. Remove all magenta and yellow filtration and try again.

    PE

  10. #70

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    The reason is chemical all my filters is 0



 

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