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  1. #81

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    One question about Re-expose . When paper become slightly pink it's means that picture is reexposed completely and further re-exposure does not give anything. I use 100 watt bulb and white places of picture become slightly pink after 3-5 min it is enough and I can redevelop or I can re-expose more and result will be better ?

  2. #82
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    Remove Cyan and Magenta to fix this up. Start by removing 10C and 20M to see how it works. The picture appears too blue/magenta on my monitor.

    A failed blix with normal RA4 processing will seem to work but will give dull colors. With this reversal process it will give very bad overall gray images.

    PE

  3. #83

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    One Question about re-exposing after re-expose picture must look that Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	51591 this happens which picture after re exposure of 2-3 min 100 watt bulb further re-expose doesn't effect on picture colour. That means the picture is totally re-exposed.

  4. #84
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    2-3 min near a 100 watt bulb is enough.

    Your picture looks quite good except for filtration. Note that the filtration works the opposite way compared to normal negative processing. If you need to add yellow, you increase yellow filtration. So it feels more logical, the effect is exactly the same as you can see in the image projected by the enlarger.

    And if you are already at zero on magenta, you can add both C and Y at same amounts.

  5. #85

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    I am almost understand how it works. My today best result Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	51658 at now I understand why ciba prints was so expensive You need to do very much test prints to get great result. I try to mix Your developer 1 / 3 and I think it works better. Developer Works like soft working developer and I can get soft "grey" BW neg. For normal BW process this kind of neg is awful because very hard to get normal BW print but for this process it works great. Tomorrow I try mix developer 1/4 and I do many Re-exposure test and I think then longer Re-ex time than better and colourful print You can get but I not shore yet I check it tomorrow.

  6. #86
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    Now it seems that you have reached the "typical" point in Reversal RA-4.

    As stated by Photo Engineer many times, portraits just do not look very good in this process.

    It is difficult to get clean highlights, they always seem to end up cyan and/or yellow and you cannot correct them with filtration. This one seems to have both cyan and yellow cast in highlights.

    OTOH, if you print a scenery, different color casts in areas of different brightness may not be bad thing at all, but cyan or green foreheads do not look very appealing.

    You can try to do two things to try to clear highlights: (1) reduce the amount of bromide in FD, (2) add some sodium thiosulphate to FD.

    If I get back to this process, I am planning to try three things: (1) softer (lower contrast) first developers (maybe including 2-bath developers), (2) using thiocyanate in FD, instead of / in addition to thiosulphate, (3) using SLIMT (latent image ferricyanide bleaching pre-FD).

  7. #87
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    Ok, if you are talkng color photography, dye density is proportional to silver mass developed. In B&W photography, density is not always proportional to the mass. Soft working developers often change the morphology of the developed silver, and not the mass and therefore changing FD does not change contrast in this type of cross process.

    PE

  8. #88

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    One question about colour developer. How long it works ? I print yesterday all day and re-develop a lot of pictures in it and CD doesn't chance colour. In usual RA4 process developer become dark after it's dead. I use fuji chemicals and they nab be stored without air for a long time.

  9. #89
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    Mixed RA4 developer is almost eternal in terms of shelf life! It can also develop an enormous number of prints. I have never counted.

    In normal RA-4 process, it discolors (usually to dark magenta) because of the dyes released from papers. This doesn't mean it would be dead! You can use the developer as long as you get good blacks with your usual developing time, the dyes from papers that make it dark do not affect the process in any way.

    Naturally, in the reversal process, these dyes end up in first developer, stop and wash water, so you can maintain the original color of the color developer. In the terms of number of prints, it is no different from normal RA-4. And, you can use the very same developer between these processes, just make sure you wash the papers well before going to color developer.

    If you decide to make a "low contrast color developer" by adding sodium/potassium sulfite at about 0.5 g/l, you can also use it for both processes for the same lower-contrast effect.

  10. #90

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    In Your first developer is only 0.2 g potassium bromide. Reduce it more ? Today I try to add some sodium sulphite in CD. When I mix concentrate I add 0.2 gr of thiosulphate today I try to add more.



 

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