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  1. #11

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    Bob, I've processed sheets from the top, middle and bottom of the boxes at room temperature, 88F, and 96F, and all of them came out with the green cast.



    The too sheets on the left were at room temp, and the two on the right were at 94F. Still green cast, but not as strong.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kloppervok View Post
    Bob, I've processed sheets from the top, middle and bottom of the boxes at room temperature, 88F, and 96F, and all of them came out with the green cast.



    The too sheets on the left were at room temp, and the two on the right were at 94F. Still green cast, but not as strong.
    some of them almost look the color you get when you contaminate your developer with blix....but not quite.

  3. #13

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    Others have reported here that Fuji papers do not work at room temp, exactly which chems are you using and how are you mixing them and processing? Have you tried processing an unexposed sheet of paper? I assume you are doing this in total darkness.

  4. #14

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    I've processed multiple unexposed strips, and they come out looking uniformly green, albeit, different shades.
    I'm using the Kodak Ektacolor replenisher kit, mixed as per the directions. I remade a batch yesterday, and the results were more or less identical. I'm also using the Kodak RA blix kit. Both of these are new, as far as I can tell; i ordered them through my local photo shop.

    Like I said before, I don't think the problem is on the dry side.

  5. #15

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    At normal, not room, temps required for the Fuji paper you will probably need starter to mix the developer. Which replenisher kit, they have a few. Are you using the Kodak product numbers linked to in this post? http://www.apug.org/forums/forum221/...tml#post919782

    Edit, try putting a piece of paper in the blix only, is it green or pure white?

  6. #16

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    I left a strip in blix, just to see what would happen, for about 1 hour, and, there was no noticeable difference between the portion that was submerged, and the one that wasn't.

    On my dev bottle, the kodak cat number is : 841 5580, on my blix, it's 830 9031, which are identical to the kits you cite in your post. It is possible that i might need starter with Fuji paper, but I have no way to prove otherwise without first spending the money.

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by bob100684 View Post
    I still doubt this. I have been working in minilab environments and when we received Fuji CAII we just needed to re balance for the new paper. No new chemistry or anything. This was using an old optical SFA with standard RA-4. Frontiers got a software update.
    I am reporting what Fuji announced at the International Congress of Imaging Science in May of 2006.

    PE

  8. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kloppervok View Post
    I've processed multiple unexposed strips, and they come out looking uniformly green, albeit, different shades.
    I'm using the Kodak Ektacolor replenisher kit, mixed as per the directions. I remade a batch yesterday, and the results were more or less identical. I'm also using the Kodak RA blix kit. Both of these are new, as far as I can tell; i ordered them through my local photo shop.

    Like I said before, I don't think the problem is on the dry side.
    If you rinse, blix, wash and then dry an unexposed strip, and it is green, then the paper or blix have a problem. If it is white, then the paper or developer have a problem.

    There are reports that Fuji paper does not process well at room temp. IDK, as I have never tried it based on those reports and the fact that Kodak paper is less expensive and easier to get here in Rochester.

    PE

  9. #19

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    We may get you to the right answer but I'd be inclined to write to Fuji about this as well for belt and braces to get you to an answer. It seem that raising the temp of the dev improved the cast quite a lot but even if Fuji isn't a room temp paper then at 96F you would seem to have eliminated this as a cause. Fuji paper processed correctly with good chems and colour balance will not produce a green cast which is inherent and non removeable, even if it is a less user friendly paper than Kodak.

    Well if it is inherently flawed then the champagne corks are already popping in Rochester: and a lot of Fuji minilabs are right now contacting Kodak for supplies.

    pentaxuser

  10. #20

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    I called my local photofinishing lab, and their main color tech told me that kodak paper goes magenta when fogged and that fuji paper goes green/blue and that my paper might just been on the edge.

    Since I can't vouch for the shipping conditions, it's possible that the paper has been fogged or was held at a high temperature for too long.

    I was also told that there is a product for b/w paper that helps you take care of fogging. Is there a similar thing with ra paper?

    I'm super disappointed at the results.

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