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  1. #11
    paul_c5x4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by perkeleellinen View Post
    (anyone have a scanned user's manual for a LPL C7700?).
    Yes - PM on it's way with a link. Be warned though. There isn't really that much information in the manual.

  2. #12

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    70m 55y would seem to be somewhere in the right area on my LPL7700.I would suggest that your enlarger is correct now. Maybe there was a problem before. With 105m 95y I would expect the transmitted light to look very red on the baseboard/easel.

  3. #13
    hrst's Avatar
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    Maybe there was something wrong with the filter positions and opening the machine when changing the bulb popped filters to their correct places.

  4. #14

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    Paul, Thanks!

    mexico531 & hrst: yes, I think this could be the case. Good to know 70M/55Y is about right on someone else's machine. At 105M, 95Y the light is very red. So red that when I swung the under-the-lens red filter over half of the image, I could barely see the difference.
    Steve.

  5. #15
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    I assume you picked up the enlarger second hand correct? Few buy enlargers brand new these days.

    I have an old Omega DII that I recently switched out the lamphouse to the Super Chromega Dichroic II.
    I picked up the dichroic head off ePrey and it wasn't in the best shape so it afforded me the luxury of getting to know the inner workings and how the filters and light path were designed.

    On the Omega, the filters swing in and out of the light path by means of a geared cam setup and the whole cam assembly/filter holder-arm can become crusted from old lube and the incredible amount of dust that can get in there if the head is not periodically maintained.

    The filters are quite small, say 25cm x 25cm and are held in place with 4 drops of glue/cement. The filters can VERY easily become loose or cracked and slide out of position.

    What I'm getting at is although your lamphead will be a different design the principles are the same and not that difficult to figure out if you are at all mechanically inclined and can get a good look at things.

    You can open up the head and clean up everything and see if somethings been knocked out of place etc. There's quite a few parts that can get bumped out of place etc on an older unmaintained enlarger.
    The head will run cooler if you get the dust out and preform much better.

    It can be a bit intimidating at first but if you take it slow on a well lit table/workbench the designs aren't real complex.

    Good luck in getting everything straight again.

  6. #16

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    Yes, it is secondhand, I got it from a fellow APUGer. I transported it back home by car and although we did our best to cushion it, there may have been some jolts on the way. When I got it home I just span the dails noticed the colour shifts and thought all was good. B&W prints were fine and colour was easy enough to balance. I've tried printing three films, all of which have high filter pack values:

    Superia 800: 100M/90Y
    Pro 800Z: 100M/105Y
    Pro 400H: 105M/105Y

    It looks increasingly likely that something may have got dislodged on the journey home and changing the lamp last week shifted things back into place. But I'll take a good look inside the head this week and check for anything obviously out of place.
    Steve.

  7. #17

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    Steve,

    Have you noticed a powered residue on the newer boxes of Kodak Supra Endura packaged in Brazil?

    Tom

  8. #18

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    Tom,

    I did notice the black bag had some sort of residue on it when I first opened the box.
    Steve.

  9. #19
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    I also have an LPL C7700, and I use 80M/65Y as standard filtration when printing on Supra Endura.

  10. #20
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    Stop replenishing. It just causes problems. Use the developer to capacity and dump it. Mix it the same way every time. You'll avoid inconsistencies and strange things like this.
    --Nicholas Andre

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