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  1. #11
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiberiustibz View Post
    There are two methods for running C41. First is to reuse the chemistry the maximum number of times, which is three uses. The first use you use 3'15" for the developer, the second time you use 3'30" and the third 3'45". This method is designed primarily for first time C41 users who are paranoid at saving money. After a while, however, one realizes that the primary issue is quality of the product. This method involves using developer one shot, bleach twice, and fix once or twice. It assures quality and to be honest it doesn't really cost that much.
    There are three methods with home processing in roller or hand tanks.

    1. One shot method. The best for raw quality and consistency.

    2. Replenished method. Second-best for raw quality and consistency. Good idea if you are processing a crapload of film all the time. Might be a good idea if the club shoots enough!

    3. Reuse method. This is the method you listed...except the times you named are wrong, and you can run three extended times after the initial batch, not two. The first time is 3:15. The second is 3:23. The third is 3:28. The fourth is 3:33, If my memory serves me correctly.

    When you need to go to the next time is as follows:

    After every:

    12 rolls 135-12
    5 rolls 135-24
    4 rolls 135-36
    8 rolls 110-24
    3 rolls 120
    1 roll 220
    10 sheets 4x5
    2 sheets 8x10

    ...per liter.

    The oddball to me is the 220. Why can you do three rolls of 120 before having to add time, but only one roll of 220?
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 02-18-2010 at 05:34 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  2. #12
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    If you are a really small club, quite honestly, this venture doesn't make a lot of sense to me. The main benefits of home processing are that you can save a lot of money, and obtain very high-quality negatives. With not many people in the club using the chems, the first advantage is lost. With a blix process, the second advantage is lost. At that point, going to a professional lab at about $8 per roll process only would be the better route.

    After hearing your last response, I still recommend the Kodak chems, and mixing single-liter batches instead of 5 L batches like I suggested previously. You can do this by using tiny graduates for exact splitting of the concentrated chemicals. Surely the storage of the bottles can be figured out by a club of enterprising photographers.

    P.S. Ignorance and inexperience are good reasons to do something, not good reasons to not do it. That way, the ignorance and inexperience are eradicated...which would be your club doing some real good for its members!
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 02-18-2010 at 05:51 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  3. #13
    tiberiustibz's Avatar
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    It's fun though. The better idea is to try RA4 printing.
    --Nicholas Andre

  4. #14

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    Your useage seems to parallel mine. I use Kodak Chemistry exclusively and suggest that you look at the following:
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...plenisher.html
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...r_Starter.html
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...41_Fixer_.html
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...leach_III.html
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...h_Starter.html
    http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produc...41SM_Tank.html

    Since you are a small user like me, download "Preparing Smaller-Than-Package-Size Amounts of Kodak...from Kodak's website (CIS-49) and the Kodak Pub on processing. When preparing, keep in mind that once preparing the replisher (page 5), you then prepare the working tank solution from the replenisher you just prepared (page 8). For example, I processed 3 rolls of C-41 on Monday for which I needed only 860ml of replisher instead of 1L. So just do the math.
    BTW I use a Jobo CPA processor

  5. #15
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    Unmixed concentrates can keep better than you might think. If you are worried, you can put the concentrates for the developer to a refrigerator. According to my experience, it will last even a year that way.

    I would encourage you to use the "official" chemicals even if you don't use it all before it expires. They are still so cheap that you save money compared to lab, even if you had to dump half of it, and processing film by yourself is a good experience and gives usually better results. It may even happen that people start shooting more when it's cheap and quick to process! That's the experience at our club.

    And, about the number of baths; These blix processes seem to ask for a stop bath and wash, at least when re-used as you want, and then you have the same number of baths.

    I'm "R&D Director of Development" at our photo club . Our club is also very small. In 2007, we went into world of color and started using Tetenal C-41 and Tetenal E6, the "shorter" versions. The possibility to process these films made people shoot them much more than before. Now we use cheaper and better Fujihunt C-41 and Kodak E6 chems. It costs 1 EUR per roll, one-shot with unrivaled quality in rotary Jobo. Can't complain. If you are going to use traditional inversion tanks though, one-shot gets more expensive (like $3 per roll or something; not so much still!) and you can reuse to get it at $1 per roll. But, if the gallon of chemistry does seem too much to be used in a year or so, better to do one-shot from the start than to save it first by reusing and then finally dump the unused stuff.
    Last edited by hrst; 02-18-2010 at 07:12 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #16
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    If you use a tank or rotary processor, with a prewet to bring up the temperature, (recommended) it is nearly mandatory to throw out the developer after a single use! This is due to the dilution introduced by the carryover of pre-rinse water as most people are sloppy in draining the tank or tube. OTOH, you can mix used developer with fresh and continue with the time increases mentioned above if you are very very careful.

    The bleach and fix (separate steps recommended) can be replenished by adding fresh solution to the used solution as you go. Same with the final rinse.

    PE

  7. #17
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    If you use a tank or rotary processor, with a prewet to bring up the temperature, (recommended) ...

    PE
    I just spin the drum dry for a while whilst the bath gets up to temp. The body heats up with the water jacket remaining around it for most of its movement so I'm assuming the film inside and to a lesser extent the air will get up to temp also (?)
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

  8. #18
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    If you use a tank or rotary processor...
    When you said "tank", were you talking about a hand inversion tank?

    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    ...most people are sloppy in draining the tank or tube.
    How sloppy = sloppy? Are you sure most people are sloppy? I am very neat, myself.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by nick mulder View Post
    I just spin the drum dry for a while whilst the bath gets up to temp. The body heats up with the water jacket remaining around it for most of its movement so I'm assuming the film inside and to a lesser extent the air will get up to temp also (?)
    Nick;

    I have never found that to work well for me. But, if it works, use it! OTOH, do you have a reference set of negatives for comparison. I do.

    PE

  10. #20
    nick mulder's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Nick;

    I have never found that to work well for me. But, if it works, use it! OTOH, do you have a reference set of negatives for comparison. I do.

    PE
    I did on one occasion photograph my macbeth chart here ... No drastic color shifts, but then shooting Fortia to Astia - color schmolor !
    Cleared the bowel problem, working on the consonants...

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