New to color processing, obvious question, hard answer to find
Alright I am the president of the Photo Club at our university and we are finally making the leap to color processing(C-41). We will not have color printing but will scan them into our computer and print them on our large format photo printer. For simplicity and space we are going to be using the Unicolor powder kit(makes 1 liter) and will be stored in accordion style containers to minimize oxidation. My question is that after using for example the developer on one roll of film, is the developer discarded or added back into the unused developer. I also am wondering this with the blix and stabilizer. It seems like a very simple question but I have not been able to find that simple answer.
I hope someone can clarify this for me
It may be useful if you make your location clear, i.e. United Kingdom, USA, Netherlands etc.
Just a thought to possibly help.... I use this kit from Freestyle & I see the instructions are in pdf. Perhaps they could serve as a guide to help.
Welcome to APUG!
There are two methods for running C41. First is to reuse the chemistry the maximum number of times, which is three uses. The first use you use 3'15" for the developer, the second time you use 3'30" and the third 3'45". This method is designed primarily for first time C41 users who are paranoid at saving money. After a while, however, one realizes that the primary issue is quality of the product. This method involves using developer one shot, bleach twice, and fix once or twice. It assures quality and to be honest it doesn't really cost that much.
I recommend using distilled water to mix your stabilizer. It removes the gunk issues.
You will find that powder kits, while useful as introductory kits or visiting south africa and need to process film to mail to newspaper kits, are not cost effective nor provide the best quality. I personally recommend using Kodak chemistry. You mix up a gallon of developer at a time and decant it into glass bottles--usually the one liter size. I typically mix fix by the gallon, stabilizer by the liter from distilled water, and bleach comes ready made.
PS. Don't use accordion bottles. They're terrible--worse than normal plastic bottles. They are made of low grade permeable plastic.
Tom, I am located in the US, northern New York to be exact.
wclark5179, that was the first place I checked, couldn't find anything helpful
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I would steer clear of any kit that uses a blix. Not only is the modified process not as archivally sound, but these kits are actually more expensive than the Kodak chemicals last I checked. Paying more for worse negatives makes no sense at all. I don't understand why this stuff can stay around, but the Kodak stuff keeps getting cut back more and more.
What is wrong with using the honest-to-god Kodak chemicals? You can mix them up 5 L or 10 L at a time and use them one shot, save the chemicals and use extended development times in subsequent runs through them, or mix up replenisher, and use them replenished.
Are people really only processing one roll at a time? Makes more sense for people to get together in groups to fill a liter container, then dump the liter of developer.
"Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."
- Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)
If you are happy with Unicolor then fine but if you are a club and intend to do quite a lot of C41 processing, you might want to consider the costs of Unicolor v Kodak. If I were a large volume user instead of an occasional user as one man and a darkoom then I think that Kodak's pedigree in C41 would tempt me to try Kodak.
It sounds as if the kit may use a blix and not separate bleach and fix and it is powder. Have a look a various threads here but there is a body of opinion that says that powder is not ideal for C41 and secondly that blix isn't as good at producing as archivally sound negs as bleach then fix.
Just some thoughts on research that you might want to carry out and then discuss with members of your club.
2f/2f and pentaxuser: We are not a very large club and the use of a three component developing process is for simplicity for people who in some cases have never worked with any film, be it B&W or color. Another reason is we are very limited in space. Having several gallons of chemicals mixed up is not easy to store in our situation. Lastly we are not a high quantity processor. This is our first foray into color development and we would most likely loose the chemicals to oxidation before we use them up. If there is strong interest from the rest of the club we can upgrade to a full chemistry set from a larger name manufacturer.
I would recommend using the stuff as 1L for the first run- 4-35mm or 2-120, or 2-220 works with 1L in my stainless reels and tank set up. When I use my paterson reels I can load 2-120 end to end on the same reel and then can thus do 4-120 at once per litre.
I would recommned using the used stuff route within a week of the first run of it.
my real name, imagine that.
By all means get started with the easier kits. I just found them annoying shortly after starting with them. If you have the money and don't need perfect results go for it.
You can mix up one liter sizes from the larger chemistry kits BTW.