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  1. #71
    fotch's Avatar
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    Wruzin, Argon and Nitrogen are the gases that I know of being inert and good for topping off the developer,
    Items for sale or trade at www.Camera35.com

  2. #72
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    P.S. Flexicolor Final Rinse (the current proper name for the step that used to be called "Stabilizer) is only $2.50 per bottle at B&H, with a minimum order of 12 bottles, and they will ship it, unlike a large number of their Flexicolor products. This is a way better deal than Samy's.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

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  3. #73

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Tom;

    Table 3.3 is for use with 3'15" development time. You equated 330 ml with one pint, but that is not correct. In any event, the times and capacities I gave were for 1 pint of developer or doubled for one quart which is less than 1 liter. Even 330 ml is less than one liter.

    In any event, that table shows that 4 rolls can be run through a liter. That is exactly what I have given in my table with no change in time. Now, if you go down to page 7 of the document you refer to, it discusses increasing the time to get back into control, but it does not give specs.

    So, the Kodak document is given for single use chemistry, not for a careful operator who conserves his chemistry (Which is what we used to do back in the 70s when things were different!).

    So, the bottom line is that if you process and throw away the developer, then use the new tables but if you are a careful and conservative operator then use the table I gave earlier. I have done both and they both work!

    I prefer throw away with the Jobo due to the losses involved and the nature of the process. With an SS tank, I do it the other way.

    PE
    I hear ya PE. As you said earlier, the Jobo introduces more oxidation than the dip and dunk and other methods so that's probably why Kodak says to toss it after one use. At my current C-41 processing cost - $.15/sheet and $.50/roll of 120 - that's fine with me. I can't complain with that!

    Also it was nice to learn that the current C-41 developer is the same that been in use for the past 40 years and that you can squeeze more per volume by extending the developing time.

    BTW, Kodak E-mailed me the following this morning:

    Dear Thomas,

    After checking further, the Bleach III replenishers are all scheduled for discontinuence.

    The recommended replacement would be Flexicolor Bleach Replenisher NR, which is available in 5 Liter and 5 gallon mixes.
    Below is a link to our dealer locator for the US

    Thmas

  4. #74
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Tom;

    Remember to run tests. Don't waste your film with an incorrect process.

    PE

  5. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2F/2F View Post
    Checked Samy's Pasadena today. Here is the scoop:

    Developer kit to make 10 L working solution is in stock for about $40. Only one left.
    Bleach, 2.7 L ready to use is in stock, for $30. About four left.
    Fixer, 1 gallon concentrate to make 5 gallons working, is in stock for $7. Only one left.
    Stabilizer is in supply in the warehouse, and can be transferred to any retail location, so a whole case does not need to be ordered at this point. About $7 each.

    All C-41 items have been moved to special order only status, so the stock currently on the shelves at retail locations or in the warehouse is it, without special ordering.

    They also have RA chems in stock on the shelf, including two one-gallon developer kits.

    With color chems, it appears that it is best to stock up ahead of time at this point, rather than expecting to find them on shelves. Quite a tragedy!
    Thanks for looking Keith.
    Like much of the information I've gotten in trying to find the chemicals, your inventory is quite different than what I was told they had when I called them this morning. The items and prices I got from a sales associate are quite different than yours. I don't know if she was looking at a computer screen or the shelf. I may go there in the morning to check it out.

    If kodak put the letter D in front of their chemicals instead of C, they'd be selling lots more of it
    Last edited by wildbill; 03-26-2010 at 10:53 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

  6. #76

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    Addendum to previous posting: I purchased my Flexicolor chemistry from Pakor, Inc ( was a one time called Pako and has been in business for many years in the Twins Cities area ). They have a rather extensive listing of Kodak, Fuji and Trebla chemistry on their website. They shipped UPS COD. Beware, shipping costs were more than the chemistry costs, but I suspect shipping and hazmat cost will be similar no matter where you buy the chemistry by mail order or over the net. Time from order to receipt of goods was one week. Costs of chemistry breakdown: 5 gals of Developer/Replintisher ( four 5 gal kits in a box, 20 gallons in all) $23.10; Kodak Developer Starter 1 quart bottle which makes almost a lifetime supply of starter solution, $4.50 ; Kodak Fixer Replentisher came in a box with 4, 1 gallon bottles, each makes 5 gallons of working fixer or 20 gallons of fixer total, $26.64; Kodak SM Bleach in two 2.2 liter bottles used straight from the bottle, no mixing needed, $60.20; Kodak Final Rinse in one bottle which mixes to 12.5 gallons, $12.01 So, expense seems reasonable except for the shipping costs, which are outrageous.

  7. #77
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildbill View Post
    Thanks for looking Keith.
    Like much of the information I've gotten in trying to find the chemicals, your inventory is quite different than what I was told they had when I called them this morning. The items and prices I got from a sales associate are quite different than yours. I don't know if she was looking at a computer screen or the shelf. I may go there in the morning to check it out.

    If kodak put the letter D in front of their chemicals instead of C, they'd be selling lots more of it
    No problem. I could literally walk there.

    I made a mistake in that I switched the prices of the developer and the bleach. The developer kit is around 30 bucks, and the bleach is around 40.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  8. #78
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    Well, I managed to get to Samy's in Pasadena and had a look. I picked up the only developer they had, a LORR 10L a,b,c pack cat#8121857 $26.95 a gallon of SM bleach cat#8940801 $36.95 and a gallon of fixer cat#1693837 $6.99. They're getting some final rinse for me from the warehouse in a couple days. A customer saw me carrying the chemicals on the way out and asked "Still processing film, huh?" and I replied "what the f*ck else am I gonna do with it?" No, I was nicer than that.

    I plan to use this stuff in my jobo, is this LORR mixture okay? Low Rate of Replenishment for low volumes of film. Do I need to use starter Cat # 8485153 with this? I'm not clear on these directions. Samy's didn't have it and the salesman didn't know if I needed it or not.

    Well, a search here found my answer. I do need lorr developer starter. Now another search is on. Maybe I'll get all the stuff I need before Christmas!
    Last edited by wildbill; 03-28-2010 at 01:07 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    www.vinnywalsh.com

    I know what I want but I just don't know how to go about gettin' it.-Hendrix

  9. #79
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Sounds good, Vinny!

    One word of advice before you get started: Don't use the Final Rinse in your Jobo, as the plastic tanks and tubing can be hard to fully remove it from, and it can contaminate the next development batch. Use a tray or a bucket or something, and dunk your rolls. I believe this recommendation comes from Jobo themselves, if my memory is serving me correctly.

    If you are using plastic reels, make sure you wash them very well after the Final Rinse. An old toothbrush and hot water will help.

    Final Rinse is not extremely time or temperature sensitive, nor is the final wash, so after the post-fixer wash, you have time to set up your manual dunk tank for the Final Rinse.

    All chemicals after developer can be used within a 75 - 105 F range, though as always, keeping the temperatures of your solutions the same is easiest on your film.

    Also, I am sure you know this, but do not toss your bleach or fixer after use. Only the developer gets chucked after use in a Jobo (due to oxidation from all the sloshing around with air).

    Developer will last only six weeks after mixing, regardless of how much film you have put through it, so only mix up as much as you will use in a six week period.
    Last edited by 2F/2F; 03-28-2010 at 02:33 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  10. #80
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    Try www.libertyphotoproducts.com. They cater to photolabs but also sell retail. They're in San Clemente but also ship from MN and PA. They have all the Kodak products and ship everything.

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