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  1. #21
    RobertV's Avatar
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    Formaline (37%) you can get at the Pharmacy, that means here in Holland. You only have to sign a paper for what purpose it's used. Regulations will be different worldwide. But in my case it's not a problem to get it.
    For 1 ltr. stabilizer I use 27ml Formaline of 37%. The same amount is mentioned in the Amaloco darkroom journal. The stuff is nasty so take the right precautions.

  2. #22

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    Actually i think none of us is correct.

    First; Let me correct myself; fish parasite medicine Kordon Formalin.3 (3% formaldehyde) is not 13:1 pre-diluted but 12:1 pre-diluted Formalin (39%) So that it contains 30gr formaldehyde in a liter (1000ml). Accordingly has to be diluted furhter 7:1 to contain 30gr formaldehyde in 8000ml (aka 3.75gr/lt) So that i would mix 125ml of Kordon Formalin.3 with 875ml of distilled water to get one liter of stabilizer. I hope this is right.

  3. #23

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    There used to be a science shop in town here in San Jose. I will check it out. If they don't sell it then I will try a pet shop. Thanks for all the replies. Glad that I can shoot those Vericolor-III film again. I shot it long time ago and liked its colors very much. Have quite some rolls in the freezer. I hope they are still usable for snap shots when I go hiking again.

  4. #24
    georgegrosu's Avatar
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    I used for negative color process (ECN 2) an "improved” stabilization with 30ml / l formalin. I think formalin is the most effective antibacterial substance.
    I know that formalin was used in embalming the dead. Maybe the pharmacy or the sellers of chemical reagents.
    I do not think are problems for the purchase of a small amount.
    George

  5. #25
    OldBikerPete's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Redu View Post
    I've been developing B&W for sometime at home. It's no big deal. But the places that i can get my negative rolls developed are getting less and less, more and more expensive and the results are getting worse and worse. So... that's gotto be done at home as well. I've got (what people call) a dip and dunk processor with 3 tanks, one for each developer, bleach and fix. For intermediate washing stages i'll use an external tank (bucket) of warm water. From what i've read on the net the steps are

    1) Presoaking in water
    2) Development (3':15")
    3) Water rinse
    4) Bleach (depends on the chemical but i guess something like 6':30")
    5) Water rinse
    6) Fix (as bleach)
    7) Stabilizer (pass if you don't have one)
    8) Runing warm water for 10 min.
    9) Wipe and Dry

    Question 1 : At what stage i can turn the lights on? I guess it's the end of "fixing stage" but can't make sure of it.
    Question 2 : I haven't got a bleach starter but only replenisher. It's a Kodak RA Flexicolor Bleach Replenisher (LORR). Can i use bleach replenisher without a starter by diluting it with water? Say 4 parts of water to 1 part Bleach replenisher. How would that effect the timing?

    Thanks to you..!
    If you insert a buffered acid stop bath as step 2a, you should be able to turn the lights on after that completes since development will be completely stopped (mind you, I always use Jobo daylight tanks, so I've never put this to the test). If you do use a stop bath, you will extend the useful life of your bleach and your fixer since the destructive dilution by alkaline developer will be eliminated (The bleach is by far the most expensive chemical in the 41 process).

    You MUST use the stabiliser as the final solution and NOT finish up with a wash, so swap 7 & 8.

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