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  1. #11
    mts
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    You should change your stop to one that contains sulfite to neutralize the color couplers. PE mentions this is other posts. Make your stop 1-2% acetic and also 1% sod. bisulfite. Yes, it is rather odorous but better safe than sorry.
    By denying the facts, any paradox can be sustained--Galileo

  2. #12
    RPC
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    I would recommend a longer wash between the bleach and fixer, maybe 5 minutes or more with the ferri bleach. Not to solve your problem, but in general. The D-min areas seem clearer when I do than the standard 3:15.

    RPC

  3. #13
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    What say thisismyname09 remember me some that happened in the Buftea laboratory about 25 years ago. He appeared on the machine for ECN 2 process, a big fog plus other densities increased. I made comparative tests - machine solution / fresh solution and no difference. Prebath only remained unverified. The test showed that the prebath was trouble. Prebath got off. I washed the prebath and filled with fresh solution. Everything went well. In general, when a "jump comes”, it is easy to solve process. Wash machine and put fresh solutions.
    After a few years I received a brochure from Agfa for contamination prebath. We already pass.
    My impression is that thisismyname09 have a contamination problem.
    I do not work with 41 C kits. I use the ECN 2 process for all color negative films. I consider the results satisfactory.

    From here you can make an idea.
    http://www.kodak.com/global/plugins/...ls/z131_05.pdf Use KODAK FLEXICOLOR Chemicals to process KODAK Color Negative Films and other films designed for Process C-41.

    George

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    Hello all. Regarding the wash step(s) in the Flexicolor C 41 process; I have noticed some folks use a wash between the developer and fixer step; while others use a wash after both bleach and fixer steps. Kodak seems to go both ways depending upon whether one is using a "rotary-tube processor" or a "small tank". Kodak instructions for the former do not suggest using a wash until after the fixer step, but when using a "small tank", a wash is included after the bleach step and the fixer step. I am currently using Paterson tanks with a Beseler motor base, which, I guess is considered a "rotary-tube", but isn't it a "small tank" as well? I am using Kodak's Flexicolor chemistry pretty much as a "one shot" process, except for the SM Bleach which I have been reusing after pumping air into it with a fish tank bubbler. I was wondering why the "wash" step seems to be added in some directions and omitted in others? Maybe PE can add some insight on this?

  5. #15
    Stephen Frizza's Avatar
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    Im confused as to why you are running control strips in a process which isnt the designed process for the control strips ( re. ferri bleach) if the result is so critical that you are running controls why not run the proper process? why not use the correct bleach?
    "Its my profession to hijack time" ~ Stephen Frizza.

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mts View Post
    You should change your stop to one that contains sulfite to neutralize the color couplers. PE mentions this is other posts. Make your stop 1-2% acetic and also 1% sod. bisulfite. Yes, it is rather odorous but better safe than sorry.
    To be more precise, it scavenges any remaining color developer to prevent coupling in the strong ferri bleach.

    PE

  7. #17
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    I had nothing but brilliant results with the tetenal kit, though I processed @ 31c when I still had tetenal chemicals.

    The Agfa bleach is pretty cheap btw.

  8. #18
    RPC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stephen Frizza View Post
    Im confused as to why you are running control strips in a process which isnt the designed process for the control strips ( re. ferri bleach) if the result is so critical that you are running controls why not run the proper process? why not use the correct bleach?
    A ferri bleach, used properly should give good strip results. This is taken from Kodak's process control literature concerning testing for retained silver and leuco-cyan dye:

    "2. Rebleach the control strip for 5 minutes in a known
    good bleach (i.e., a properly constituted Process C-41
    bleach or a solution made from KODAK Farmer?s
    Reducer, Part A)."

    Part A in Farmer's Reducer is potassium ferricyanide.

    Using a control strip and a densitometer always makes sense, the whole point being knowing just how close you are to the real thing, and when it is necessary to make changes.

    RPC

  9. #19

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    1. I believe that you are making a mistake by pre-soaking the film. Moth Jobo and Kodak recommend that you bring the drum up to processing temperature by rotating it in the trough for 5 minutes and do not use a pre-soak.

    2. Both Jobo and Kodak recommend a 3;15 development time @ 100.4F

    3. You don't need a to use a stop between the developer and bleach according to both Kodak and Jobo.

    4. Both Jobo and Kodak recommend a 6:30 bleach cycle. I wouldn't short it.

    5. Jobo inserts a 3-minute wash between the bleach and fix step (6 changes of water). Works fine as far as I can tell.

    6. Both Jobo and Kodak recommend a 6:30 fix cycle. Why short it?

    7. Jobo recommends a 5 minute final wash with 6 changes of water.

    8. Jobo recommends a 1-minute final rinse/stablizer off processer. Kodak recommends 1:30.

  10. #20
    RPC
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    When using a ferri bleach, some type of stop bath is absolutely necessary between the developer and bleach. Any developer carryover into the bleach will be oxidized by the ferri, causing a bad stain.

    A long wash or clearing bath is recommended after the ferri bleach to prevent reaction with sulfur in the fixer, resulting in fogging.

    RPC

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