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  1. #11
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2F/2F View Post
    Then make Ilfochrome prints. Get it while it's hot! It won't be around forever! It is available from Freestyle.
    :rolleyes:

    Yeah I thought of that, too spendy to set up a whole new line of materials.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Ana´s Nin

  2. #12
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    $90 for two liters of chemistry and $90 for 25 sheets of 8x10 or $275 for 50 sheets of 11x14 is spendy...however, how much will you spend on film, chemistry, paper, chemicals, and your personal time doing what you are planning, and still not ever get it quite "normal" looking (which is what you stated that you want).

    Experimenting and alternative processes are great, and I hope you fire away and let us know all about what happens...but for your listed criterion ("...printable with normal colors"), Ilfochrome is the way...and if no one buys it, it will no longer even be a way.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  3. #13
    Athiril's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    A fresh question first, did you rate the film at box speed?
    Yes was box speed (ISO 200), dev time for that one was about 8min 30sec iirc, ISO 800 also comes out well, slower than box speed, not so much.

    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    Good info. I have no problem with using the normal 100f or better and I have plenty of Xtol, just need to work out the right times.

    Did you per chance start at 3'15" with that hot Xtol?
    From memory, it was Xtol 1+1, 40c, 40min, as opposed to simply being able to make a good b&w negative @ room temp with Xtol 1+1, which is about 8 minutes. I'm not sure why this is. Rodinal was the same, for positives, it took 1+50, 40c, 2 hours 20 min with agitation, no standing (though that was on C-41 film, might be a bit much for E-6 film).

    Quote Originally Posted by markbarendt View Post
    I've got the C-41 developer so I'll be starting there. Life will be simpler if I can avoid E-6 specific chems.



    I assume that normal times for the ancillary processes are sufficient, is that correct?
    Yep normal times, I usually let my bleach and fix sit for a fair bit longer processing @ room temp instead of hot just to make sure.

    The first fix step in re-developing for colour negs is critical to a good picture.

  4. #14
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Athiril View Post
    From memory, it was Xtol 1+1, 40c, 40min, as opposed to simply being able to make a good b&w negative @ room temp with Xtol 1+1, which is about 8 minutes. I'm not sure why this is. Rodinal was the same, for positives, it took 1+50, 40c, 2 hours 20 min with agitation, no standing (though that was on C-41 film, might be a bit much for E-6 film).
    40 minutes is a lot of time.

    I may have to consider getting a normal Kodak one-shot E-6 kit and just replacing the reversal step with fix and bleach steps.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Ana´s Nin

  5. #15
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 2F/2F View Post
    Ilfochrome is the way...and if no one buys it, it will no longer even be a way.
    I feel your pain 2F/2F.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Ana´s Nin

  6. #16
    DanielStone's Avatar
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    mark, I was joking about the expired chems. I knew you wanted accurate color, just 'pulling' your leg

    -Dan

  7. #17
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    You can replace the reversal bath with a bright light if that's what you're asking. You can replace the E6 bleach with C41 bleach and use a regular b+w developer. Of course it's $50 for a 5 liter kit...
    --Nicholas Andre

  8. #18
    markbarendt's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tiberiustibz View Post
    You can replace the reversal bath with a bright light if that's what you're asking. You can replace the E6 bleach with C41 bleach and use a regular b+w developer. Of course it's $50 for a 5 liter kit...
    Replacement of equivalent steps isn't the issue, and buying a 5 liter E-6 kit isn't a problem if that's what I need.

    This is probably a good place to summarize.

    I see several possible routes to E-6 negatives they each essentially start this way:

    Develop as B&W, (E-6 first developer, Xtol, Rodinal, HC-110 or ...)
    fix as B&W, (washes away the "positive" silver)
    then bleach (to get the silver halides back)

    From here there are several possible options.

    A) expose to light and process as a normal C-41.

    B1) expose to light then pick up and complete the normal E-6 process starting with the color developer step.

    B2) Pick up and complete the normal E-6 process in the chemical reversal step, no light.

    I'm including "B2" as an option because the E-6 color developer is dependent on some carry over to activate the color developer. Don't know if this is workable or not.

    "A" is the option I'd prefer to use.
    Last edited by markbarendt; 04-10-2010 at 08:21 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Mark Barendt, Ignacio, CO

    "We do not see things the way they are. We see things the way we are." Ana´s Nin

  9. #19
    Athiril's Avatar
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    I use exposure to light with E-6 Colour Developer made from Kodak E-6 Colour Developer Replenisher + Starter, have not had problems with that.

  10. #20

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    So, to be clear, the Kodak Reversal Bath is superfluous, as i can just fog it myself, correct?

    However, what is the difference between the E6 Color Developer and the C-41 Developer?

    Is there a way to modify/eliminate the Pre-Bleach step?

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