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  1. #21

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kloppervok View Post
    So, to be clear, the Kodak Reversal Bath is superfluous, as i can just fog it myself, correct?

    However, what is the difference between the E6 Color Developer and the C-41 Developer?

    Is there a way to modify/eliminate the Pre-Bleach step?
    I think you can just expose the film to light in place of a reversal bath; it should have the same effect.

    C-41 developer uses CD-4 as the main developing agent. E6 (and RA-4) developer uses CD-3.

    I don't think some of the cheap 3-bath E-6 kits include a pre-bleach step. It can probably be omitted if you bleach for long enough and/or use everything one-shot. I honestly wouldn't know though.

  2. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kloppervok View Post
    So, to be clear, the Kodak Reversal Bath is superfluous, as i can just fog it myself, correct?

    However, what is the difference between the E6 Color Developer and the C-41 Developer?

    Is there a way to modify/eliminate the Pre-Bleach step?
    Yes, I havent any trouble using the exposing to light metho for any of the non-standard ways of processing way, as well as regular E-6 'standard' processing.

    I also have no trouble using regular C-41 bleach with it, I dont have any pre-bleach step.

    Though with this film that I just developed (old 50D), I did a stabiliser step before the bleach.

  3. #23

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    Can someone else chime in a tell me why CD3 > CD4 when it comes to E6?

    I did a stabiliser step before the bleach.
    What is the purpose of doing such a thing?

    Since C-41 bleach works, can I also guess that home made ferricyanide bleach would also be acceptable?

  4. #24
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    The E6 color developer composition is totally different than the C41 color developer to begin with. The E6 color developer is intended to go to completion, is high solvent, and has a lot of competer in it to adjust image quality. CD3 in addition, forms narrow band dyes with the right absorption to give pleasing colors to the human eye while CD4 gives broader band dyes.

    Finally, the color couplers chosen for E6 films are designed to have maximum stability with CD3 while C41 films have maximum stability with CD4.

    This is not a simple thing so even though you can cross process, the results are subtly different than desired.

    PE

  5. #25

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kloppervok View Post
    Since C-41 bleach works, can I also guess that home made ferricyanide bleach would also be acceptable?
    I've used ferricyanide with C-41, so it should work with E-6. However, you must, before and after, rinse very well; you will get horrible stains if you don't. In addition to the rinse, you should use a sulfite clearing bath before the bleach.

  6. #26

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    CD3 in addition, forms narrow band dyes with the right absorption
    Thank you for the clarification.

    For the b/w first developer, are there certain characteristics that this needs to match? Can i use my current developer (F76+) or something common like D72 or tmax developer more suitable?

    What part of the image does this step control; contrast, grain size, film speed, or all of it?

    you should use a sulfite clearing bath before the bleach
    This might be the solution to the problem that I had with paper positives; i'll make a thread elsewhere i guess.

  7. #27
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    The E6 first developer is a very slow acting HA developer that gives fine grain and high sharpness. The speed is obtained by adjusting the emulsion.

    PE

  8. #28

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    Is there an high accutance developer that you recommend that I can make from scratch, to avoid having to pay $27 for a starter and replenisher that could replace kodak's?

  9. #29

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    Here is an MSDS for the E-6 first developer, if you want to try to mimic that. Alternatively, there's some home brew E-6 formulas here.

  10. #30

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kloppervok View Post
    Is there an high accutance developer that you recommend that I can make from scratch, to avoid having to pay $27 for a starter and replenisher that could replace kodak's?
    Where are you located? If you're in the US, you might just try Kodak's single-use E-6 kit. It's available mail-order from Adorama, among other places. It doesn't use separate starter or replenisher chemicals; it's just got instructions for single-shot use. The last time I did the math, it was actually significantly less expensive than the smaller 3-bath kits from other manufacturers, but it produces better results. It's a 6-bath kit, so it takes more effort to use, though.

    If you're outside the US, the same kit may be available, but I can't provide pointers to any suppliers.

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