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  1. #11
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Won't work. Sorry.

    It must be processed first, then it fades, and then you apply this treatment.

    PE

  2. #12
    RPC
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    If anyone is really interested, I will ask around and get more information on the possible Kodak films that can be "fixed" this way.
    How about 8mm Ektachrome shot in the early and mid 70s that has gone magenta? Any information you can find would be appreciated.

    RPC

  3. #13

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    So I gather that it depends on the type of film and the actual chemicals involved. I was wondering if the colour couplers were still present in the faded film if they could be restored by some form of reprocessing. I will pass this all on to my friend, I think the way to go will be to get a good scan done first before trying anything. If re bleaching does restore some colour then can scan again and photoshop will have a bit more to work with.
    If my friend still wants a transparency then there are companies who will produce a slide from a digital file.

  4. #14
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Won't work. Sorry.

    It must be processed first, then it fades, and then you apply this treatment.

    PE
    Oh, well...
    flickr--http://www.flickr.com/photos/davidagoldfarb/
    Photography (not as up to date as the flickr site)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com/photo
    Academic (Slavic and Comparative Literature)--http://www.davidagoldfarb.com

  5. #15

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    PE,

    Is there a similar procedure for restoring old RA-4 photos?

  6. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by anikin View Post
    PE,

    Is there a similar procedure for restoring old RA-4 photos?
    If they fade to red, and if the dye forming coupler is in the leuco form, this same method will work.

    PE

  7. #17
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    I tried this procedure on old Eastman 16mm print film that has gone red. My friend provided the sample.

    Didn't work on this film .

    The test procedure was;

    Presoak for ~1 min
    K ferricyanide 50 g/l for ~10 min
    Wash with running water for ~3 min
    Re-develop with Rodinal (1+10 for ~2 min) (Because ferricyanide bleaches the optical (silver) sound track away.)
    Wash with running water for ~5 min
    Stabilize with Jobo "3-bath E6 stabilizer" (with formalin), double strength for ~2 min.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails old_print_before.jpg   old_print_after.jpg  
    Last edited by hrst; 04-27-2010 at 10:13 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  8. #18
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Either the dye forming materials are totally destroyed, or this is not the type of cyan coupler that regenerates.

    PE

  9. #19
    AgX
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    This is off the limits of Apug, but by means of algorithms, based on specific dye degrading over time, digital restoration has been done.
    Last edited by AgX; 04-27-2010 at 01:41 PM. Click to view previous post history. Reason: deletion of hint at analogue approach

  10. #20
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrst View Post
    I tried this procedure on old Eastman 16mm print film that has gone red. My friend provided the sample.

    Didn't work on this film .

    The test procedure was;

    Presoak for ~1 min
    K ferricyanide 50 g/l for ~10 min
    Wash with running water for ~3 min
    Re-develop with Rodinal (1+10 for ~2 min) (Because ferricyanide bleaches the optical (silver) sound track away.)
    Wash with running water for ~5 min
    Stabilize with Jobo "3-bath E6 stabilizer" (with formalin), double strength for ~2 min.
    This process that was suggested was provided as a shot in the dark [pun intended] to save the transparency.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

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