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  1. #161
    mikecnichols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobertV View Post
    A complete data sheet (in English and German language) with times, dilutions and possible Paterson/Jobo tanks volumes in inverse and rotation is supplied with the Digibase C41 chemicals. Also syringes in different volumes are supplied together with each new C41 kit.
    Yes they are and are VERY helpful, but the missing key were the water baths. I would assume 4 fills and empties for after bleach and 8 after fix would work too.

  2. #162

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    First time Color Developing

    I recently purchased the digibase and unicolor 10 roll kits for my first foray into color developing. I found that the digibase was much less forgiving in terms of agitation and temperature. A five second error on the digibase could mean disaster, especially where the colors are concerned. I found that many of my negatives in kodak gold and fuji films had a marvelously saturated blue, and nearly looked as though they had been cross processed. The unicolor presented much more consistent results, as far as the negative went, but they also produced less dramatic colors, and tended to be more balanced toward the red.
    I intend to re-purchase the digibase kit to see if I can attenuate the temperature more accurately, as I assume I have made an error somewhere. But my advice is, if you havent used Color chemicals before, use the Unicolor kit, as It is more forgiving on both temperature and agitation.
    The digibase tended to froth in a 2 spool plastic tank and create bubbles on the film. I imagine if it is the 'newest and best' that with some practice, I can probably get amazing results from it.

  3. #163
    Mark Antony's Avatar
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    Normally if the results look to blue then the problem is with the colour developer temp (too high) and or time too long possibly excessive agitation would also give that effect.
    If the result looks blueish (sometimes cyan-blue highlights) with low contrast or weak high densities contamination with fixer may be a problem.

  4. #164
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    To me, it sounds quite impossible that there would be big differences in forgiveness of time, temperature and agitation between different manufacturers. This goes both ways around! Rollei claims that their kit is MORE forgiving, when they claim it can be used at almost any temperature. You claim the opposite from your experience. I claim that neither is true.

    I'm sure your results are for some other reason.

    You have some random error, or this is again one of the many Rollei problems. 5 second difference doesn't cause a disaster, it will cause a minor shift in overall density and contrast and a very minor shift in color balance / crossover. 30 second difference is considered 1 stop push/pull, thus 5 seconds equals to about 1/6 stop, a difference most people cannot see or even measure, no matter what.

    So, the real problem is not the time, it can be a temperature problem (of 1 deg C or more), a mixing problem or a Rollei problem.

    For temperature, there are a few cathes;
    1) Make sure your FILM and TANK are at temperature before starting (a decent preheat, at least 5 minutes without prewet, preferably more, or a 2-stage prewet with carefully measured temperature)
    2) Make sure your DEVELOPER is at correct temperature. Measure the developer, not only water bath.

    If your process is not consistent, it's hard to say whether one process is more forgiving than other. After all, what the inconsistency is, it's randomness, and you can have good results by luck. Make your process consistent.

  5. #165

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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Antony View Post
    If the result looks blueish (sometimes cyan-blue highlights) with low contrast or weak high densities contamination with fixer may be a problem.
    It wasn't So much an overall shift, just very saturated blues. other than a few frames here and there, that did look very cyan, as though cross processed.

  6. #166

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    Quote Originally Posted by hrst View Post
    T
    For temperature, there are a few cathes;
    1) Make sure your FILM and TANK are at temperature before starting (a decent preheat, at least 5 minutes without prewet, preferably more, or a 2-stage prewet with carefully measured temperature)
    2) Make sure your DEVELOPER is at correct temperature. Measure the developer, not only water bath.

    If your process is not consistent, it's hard to say whether one process is more forgiving than other. After all, what the inconsistency is, it's randomness, and you can have good results by luck. Make your process consistent.
    Well, in this case, i was doing everything 'right'. In the sense that I was checking my developer temp, i prewashed in 107F water and left the tank in the water bath to maintain temperature between inversions. I would say that 4 inversions every 30 seconds is almost too much for this kit, though it may have something to do with the way the top vent is constructed on my plastic tank. At least as far as creating a magenta mask on the negative. The first several rolls I put through the Digibase came out 'wrong'...by the time i hit the 8th roll, my results were much better as the developer exhausted, but i still had overly saturated colors and strange color balance. For instance, i took some late evening shots at a Colorado Park called 'Red Rocks'. There was a very yellow sunlight and deep shadows. The shots look as though they were taken about 10 oclock in the morning on a clear day. Great blues and yellows, no red tones or green tones whatever.
    I certainly assume 'user error' before I would say that the chemicals are poor as this was my first attempt.

  7. #167

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    Quote Originally Posted by Hell-on-a-stick View Post
    I would say that 4 inversions every 30 seconds is almost too much for this kit, though it may have something to do with the way the top vent is constructed on my plastic tank.
    I have no experience of this kit but I'd be surprised if it isn't designed to work with Jobo processors which in effect is the equivalent of continuous inversion. If 4 inversions every 30 secs is too much then you'd think that continuous cycles of rotation in both directions would render this kit useless.

    I'd be interested in other's comments on the OP's conclusion on inversions and the use of Jobo continuous rotation.

    pentaxuser

  8. #168
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    Quote Originally Posted by pentaxuser View Post
    I have no experience of this kit but I'd be surprised if it isn't designed to work with Jobo processors which in effect is the equivalent of continuous inversion. If 4 inversions every 30 secs is too much then you'd think that continuous cycles of rotation in both directions would render this kit useless.

    I'd be interested in other's comments on the OP's conclusion on inversions and the use of Jobo continuous rotation.

    pentaxuser
    This kit is especially designed for JOBO. Follow the times and temeratures in the instructionsheet. The JOBO should run on highest speed. (CPE 2 I.e at Speed 2)

  9. #169
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    The results on F for developer are OK. For the Bleach and Fix on P. (CPA-2, with elevator). About the same procedure then K54 C41 Amaloco. The difference is that the Orange mask is less dense compared to the K54 mono-negacolor kit but this kit was containing CD-2. I did for a bit less contrast develop on 37,3C (-0,5C) instead of 37,8C. With the Digibase C41 kit the contrast, Orange mask etc. are fine on the regular 37,8C temperature.

    Follow the times and temeratures in the instructionsheet
    Indeed.

  10. #170

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    Thanks for the info on the kit and using Jobos. So all of the above suggests to me that 4 inversions at 30 secs intervals isn't the cause of the OP's problems.

    pentaxuser



 

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