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  1. #181
    Paul Green's Avatar
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    I deved my first 5 rolls using the maxi kit yesterday. It was fairly hassle free and chose to use the Kodak times supplied by another member in this thread.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails example1.jpg  

  2. #182
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    Nice shot Paul!

  3. #183
    mikecnichols's Avatar
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    I developed another 2 rolls. I followed the Kodak times for processing and am pleased with the results. Here are a couple images.




  4. #184
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrst View Post
    I think PE has posted the compensation table (scan from an older Kodak instruction) many times, they are for Kodak chemistry but they should work in the same way. Tetenal should also be same.
    Thanks for the attachement. It didn't catch my eye when I browsed the thread through.

    I developed 4 films on Monday. Two 135 films at once according to Rollei's instructions, and then two 120 rolls separately by adding 15 seconds to CD time. I got okay results but I'll look into the chart for the next dev round.

    I'm really impressed on the Rollei chemicals so far. The color cast is not that much better than what I got with Tetenal C-41 but the negatives came out much cleaner. It'll be interesting to see how's the real-life storage life for these chemicals.

    Here are three frames from the first Rollei processed rolls. All of these are quick scans, no photoshopping applied (I'm removing the dust spots etc. from the final versions).

    In 2009 expired Kodak Gold 200 (135), shot at ISO160, developed normally:


    Fuji Reala 100 (120), shot at box speed, developed with additional 15 seconds:


    In 2002 expired Kodak Gold 200 (120), shot at ISO200, developed with additional 15 seconds:
    // Nikon F100 / Nikon EM / Rollei XF 35 / Minolta Hi-matic 7s / Mamiya M645 1000s / Yashicaflex / Welta Weltax //

    Flickr / Blog

  5. #185
    mikecnichols's Avatar
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    I have a question about final rinse and drying. It seems that the bottom couple of frames of my rolls are more susceptible for water staining and I'm pretty sure it is due to squeegeeing and/or the gravitational nature in hang drying. This is a two part question, is it possible to clean the negatives that have this phenomenon (and how) and how is it preventable on future rolls?

    Here are a couple of examples:




  6. #186
    AgX
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    In case yot are squeegeeing in one run beyond the bottom frame that should not happen just at those frames.

  7. #187
    mikecnichols's Avatar
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    Is there any way to fix it on the rolls it has unfortunately occurred on?

  8. #188
    mikecnichols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikecnichols View Post
    Is there any way to fix it on the rolls it has unfortunately occurred on?
    Should I re-bleach and fix then re-stabilize?

  9. #189
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    aged and used chem testing on Kodak portra 160NC

    Here is a teststrip i did today for testing the long time stability og working solution of my Rolle Digibase C41-chemistry. The one litre of working solution had previously done 15 120 films and been stored in half filled bottles for almost two months now in room-temperature. Strip is done in my studio ona the spot-on reading for this exposure was 1/125 and F11,5 The whole strip is done at 17125 and you can see the aperture on each frame. Developed at standard times from the instructionsheet in a JOBOCPE2.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Portrastrip.jpg  

  10. #190

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    kompressor. An interesting test. Based on background colour(grey?) it looks as if the spot reading used was correct and yet while the background goes very dark at f16 the colours on the chart look better to me. The f11 shot makes the colours look a little washed out.

    I take it that your conclusion here was the developer was still working correctly despite being 2 months old,having done 15 films, keep at room temp and in half filled bottles.

    pentaxuser



 

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