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  1. #191

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    And just to clarify - there was no extension in developing time?
    Steve.

  2. #192

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    I'm wondering about the expiration time of this process once is prepared, and also, in concentrated mode. Does anyone has this info?.

    Why?.. because I only shoot 1 or 2 color rolls each month, except for vacations, and I want to see if it works for me..
    Las summer, I use tetenal c-41, because in my vacations I shot 8 ektar 120, so I've prepare it, and develop all the films the same day. I couldn't find the expiration dates once is prepared for the tetenal, or the Rollei process.

  3. #193
    hrst's Avatar
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    C-41 developer in completely squeezed plastic PET soft drink bottles usually lasts for 4 to 6 months or more, and probably even more if you refrigerate it (but not below 5 deg C). I can't guarantee anything, but I wouldn't be surprised at all if it lasted more than a year in a perfect condition. This applies probably to any C-41 developer, be it Kodak, Fuji, Tetenal or Rollei.

    The usual figure that is promised by most manufacturers is around 6 weeks, but it has safety margin.

    Concentrates, while in theory allowing longer shelf life, can actually be quite problematic as they are very small bottles and displacing air is very important and not as easy as with mixed solutions in bigger bottles.

  4. #194

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    Does anyone know who can ship a kit overseas, South Amerca (Argentina)?.

  5. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikecnichols View Post
    I have a question about final rinse and drying. It seems that the bottom couple of frames of my rolls are more susceptible for water staining and I'm pretty sure it is due to squeegeeing and/or the gravitational nature in hang drying. This is a two part question, is it possible to clean the negatives that have this phenomenon (and how) and how is it preventable on future rolls?

    Here are a couple of examples:



    Can I re-bleach, fix and stabilize these rolls?

  6. #196
    hrst's Avatar
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    Rebleach, fix and stabilize can always be done, but do the whole tail end, including decent final wash and stabilizer/final rinse. Or, if you have no problems with bleach and fix and you just want to clean the film, wash AND stabilize is ok.

  7. #197
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrst View Post
    Rebleach, fix and stabilize can always be done, but do the whole tail end, including decent final wash and stabilizer/final rinse. Or, if you have no problems with bleach and fix and you just want to clean the film, wash AND stabilize is ok.
    Thank you. I wasn't sure if a water wash would be enough to clean the film thanks....will fix tonight.

  8. #198
    mikecnichols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrst View Post
    Rebleach, fix and stabilize can always be done, but do the whole tail end, including decent final wash and stabilizer/final rinse. Or, if you have no problems with bleach and fix and you just want to clean the film, wash AND stabilize is ok.
    Seems to have done the charm. Still waiting for the rolls to completely dry, but looking at those frames that were affected, the "bubbles" are not visible. Thanks for the help!

  9. #199
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    I would like to add to the longevity of these chemicals.

    I am using the 500ml kit. I mixed the chemicals on 9/30/10 and have run a total of an equivalent of 18 135-24 rolls through it.

    Everything including the last few rolls are fine. I am compensating by adding 30 seconds to the 1st dev and bleaching and fixing for the 5 minutes and 6 minutes respectively.

    Here is a scan from roll #18: (NOTE: Slight underdevelopment, also film was shot three years ago and frozen since)

    Its some consumer Fuji 400 film.


    I will probably order a new kit soon though, I will still run the occasional "trash" film through these old chem's though to see how they survive.

    -Josh
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  10. #200

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    anyone got an advice for when you're mixing the chemicals before developing? this is my first time so i want to make sure i put enough of each container in. my tank needs 240ml solution at least.



 

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