Thanks, I'll have a second attempt with full length bleach, fix and washes as per Fuji instructions - but I'll perhaps try with a blank sheet just in case. Anyone know if these chemicals can be interchanged with the fuji chemicals? I have a spare Fuji Bleach, Fix and stabalizer due to using developer one shot - can these be used with the Rolli developer?
I had to rewash a set of negs yesterday. They are much better now.
As has been posted, the Rollei instructions are wrong... washes are important esp between the bleach / fix. I basically just stuck with the process I used with the Fuji kit and it has worked perfectly with the Rollei kit: 2x30 sec pre-washes at temp, 3:15 color dev, 6:30 bleach, 4x30 sec washes, 6:30 fix, 4x30 sec + 2x1 min washes, then final rinse / stabilizer for 1 min. (in a Jobo CPE2+).
After processing with Fuji instructions I now have 12 sheets of 5x4 film beautifully processed. I think I may well stick with the Fuji kits though, other than perhaps some Rollie individual chemicals should they be needed. Providing incorrect instructions is appalling and I dont get why they dont provide enough stabalizer - I assume you are meant to re-use it rather than mix it fresh each time with the Rollie kit.
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It would seem that the C41 stabiliser used while the film is still on the reel doesn't give the same problems of stickiness on the reel that wetting agent/photo-flo gives as has been reported here and i have experienced.
Is this correct? Otherwise it means either removing the film from the reel to immerse in the stabiliser or scrubbing the reel thoroughly each time.
I have a little confession to make - I never take my films off the reel during the last stabilizer / rinse aid step. All I do is take the Jobo tank off the motor, and manually rotate for 1 minute, then drain / remove film / hang to dry. Afterwards I do thoroughly wash the tank, reels, core, and lid in lukewarm water, then set out to dry. Following these steps I haven't run into any issues in any of my processes (I do all three - C-41, E-6, and B&W).
Originally Posted by pentaxuser
Thanks for the answer but I was hoping to avoid scrubbing the reel each time. So can anyone say whether the stabiliser leaves exactly the same kind of residue on the reels as does wetting agent such as Photo-flo?
I have the midi kit with a 50ml bottle of stabiliser which makes up 2 x 250mls of working solution. If no residue is left on the reels then the obvious method is rotary processing with 140mls for 1x35mm or 240mls for 1 or 2x120. However Sebastian who makes the stuff says that stabiliser should be used without agitation so for 1x35mm the alternative is 250mls and simply pouring it into the tank and letting the film sit. Likewise for a 120 film, you'd make up the full 500mls and do likewise.
If residue is left on the reel then you could split the Jobo reel and let the film drop into the tank minus the reels.
So a solution of a kind is possible, at least with the midi-kit but possibly not the mini-kit - not enough working solution for a 120 film.
What wouldn't appear to be possible is my current method of using a bigger container(small ice cream carton) and dropping the film into that unless I get a bigger amount of stabiliser.
Stop between Dev and Bleach: There was apparently a comment by PE to the effect that Bleach is sufficiently acidic to act as an effective stop so a stopbath isn't needed. On the other hand someone made the point that dev carry-over into bleach shortens the life of the bleach so it sounds sensible to use a stop between dev and bleach.
Anyone tried both methods of dev then bleach and dev, stop then bleach and what are your findings?
Extending dev times: It sounds from users' experience that on balance there is no need to do this, contrary to what Kodak, Fuji and Tetenal say about their kits. Some users seem to have found no adverse consequences from sticking to the standard times throughout the dev's life but others have extended times. Was this because they began to notice underdevelopment or just to be on the safeside?
Finally does anyone know why 49C was chosen as the starting temp for mixing solutions? As the parts are already liquids and not powder, I cannot think that such a high temp is required to get the parts to mix and they don't need to be dissolved. Indeed if you simply wanted to mix the parts one night to save time when you processed the next night is there any reason why the parts can't be mixed at room temp, especially as the kit maker claims that processing is possible at room temp of 20C?
The consensus certainly seems to be that this kit is a welcome addition for the small volume user so finally on a lighter note and addressed to hrst: Have you been tempted to give Digibase C41 a try and if so what have been you findings?
I bought the 10 roll, 500ml kit. I developed my first rolls on the other day. I must say that using the stabiliser without agitation is pretty hard to do when you only have 250ml of liquid and you are using a normal 500ml tank... I didn't notice any residue but if I were using plastic reels I would still scrub them after each use. I didn't use stop and washed after bleach and fixer as described here. My initial result were very encouraging.
I find a bad idea to make the final bath inside the tank. You can brush the reels, but you cannot brush the water ducts inside the tank cover, the funnel etc.
I make a very prolonged final bath with the tank on the "lift" (12 or 16 times 250ml for 30") so as to wash from chemicals the tank and the lift internal ducts.
Then I open the tank and put the reel+film into final bath.
I normally wash the reels with warm water. Occasionally I brush them with toothbrush and soap. It's not necessary to do it every time. You can also be lazy and wash the reels once in a while with a more energetic method (such as dishwasher, household bleach etc.). This thing of chemical building over reels is greatly exaggerated a problem.
I make the final bath in a cylindric fridge glass container for food (Bormioli Frigoverre) with a diameter of 15cm and a height of 7 cm. That's just perfect for 135, you need a taller one for 120. The bottom is flat. The lid is water-tight so you can keep it covered without risk of spilling it in your darkroom by mistake.
I would avoid "tupperware-like" stuff to avoid chemical substances sticking to plastic.
The final bath can be reused several times. I change it only when I see some dirt (dust, hair, dandruff) on it, e.g. every 5 or 6 rolls. So you can prepare enough a quantity to cover the film without any need of agitation.