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  1. #271
    MattKing's Avatar
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    For 120, your AP tank and the stabilizer step, just put 300 ml of solution in the tank, turn it on it's side and gently roll it continuously through the entire time.

    Or if you have a roller processor of some sort (Beseler, Cibachrome, Unicolour, JOBO etc.) let it do the work.

    You can do this with any of the solutions. It is though a bit of a challenge to maintain the temperature of the developer to within the necessary tight tolerances.
    Matt

    “Photography is a complex and fluid medium, and its many factors are not applied in simple sequence. Rather, the process may be likened to the art of the juggler in keeping many balls in the air at one time!”

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  2. #272
    mikecnichols's Avatar
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    As far as the stabilzer step. What I have been doing is after a long rinse after fixing, I pour out the water, open the lid, take out my reel(s) and then shake out as much water as possible. Next, I pour the stabilizer in and I dunk each reel separately for the required time. This has eliminated two things. It eliminates the need to agitate (and the creation of air bubbles on my negs) and it helps me know that each roll has been fully submerged.

  3. #273
    zsas's Avatar
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    Wow what a simple and elegant solution! Great idea!

  4. #274
    Diapositivo's Avatar
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    Best would be to open the tank, take out to reel, and put either only the film, or the reel with film, on the stabilizer.

    Some people warn that stabilizer is no good for your reel, but you can clean your reels with toothbrush etc.
    The funnel and the light labyrinth of the tank are not so easy to clean inside. And you want to avoid any contamination by final rinse or stabilizer. So I would avoid having the tank getting in touch with the stabilizer. Your mileage may vary.
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  5. #275
    mikecnichols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diapositivo View Post
    Best would be to open the tank, take out to reel, and put either only the film, or the reel with film, on the stabilizer.

    Some people warn that stabilizer is no good for your reel, but you can clean your reels with toothbrush etc.
    The funnel and the light labyrinth of the tank are not so easy to clean inside. And you want to avoid any contamination by final rinse or stabilizer. So I would avoid having the tank getting in touch with the stabilizer. Your mileage may vary.
    I take the film out. I do keep the film on the reels, but wash immediately afterward to avoid them gunking up. To keep my fingers clean, I dunk each reel (separately), leaving it on the center that they slide down on to be put into the tank.

    Ever since I started doing this method, my results have been a lot better.

  6. #276
    Ottrdaemmerung's Avatar
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    Question:
    I've found that regardless of brand, C-41 developer always dies on me after about six weeks if I haven't used it to exhaustion by then. I know that the capacities of C-41 bleach and fixer in the Digibase kit differ from that of the developer. Are they prone to "expiring" as well if they haven't been used in a couple of months (but stored well), or are they rather inert?

    I haven't used my last batch of Digibase chemicals in over a month, and I'm about to shoot a bunch of C-41 while on vacation, so I'm wondering if my old, but not exhausted, bleach and fixer will still function as they should.
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  7. #277

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    on the same note :whats the preferred way to store it for longevity?
    i have regular bottles (they don't compress). should i try putting gas in the bottles to limit the oxygen? what do you all recommend for that.

    doug

  8. #278

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    I've had good luck using common PETE plastic bottles, squeezing the air out, and then keeping them in the fridge. It was the Unicolor powder press kit, but I had a batch mixed in November that I used until sometime in the spring, and I only stopped because I didn't want to push my luck.

  9. #279

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    Quick sanity check question: what color should the "Part C" concentrate look like when it is poured from the bottle into the measuring cylinder? Mine is pretty darn opaque / purple, and I am afraid that it has gone bad, but I want to confirm first before assuming the worst. I mainly use this stuff one-shot when developing 120 film in a Jobo tank, and I have to say I have not had good results at all (and I'm comparing against the true Fuji 3 bath kit that one can get from macodirect, which gave me superb results throughout its 5L lifetime). My most recent run of three films (in a 3 reel tank @ 330ml of working solution) produced horrible contrasty images, bordering on overexposed. I want to try and narrow down the culprit, and I believe it is either the Part C or possibly I didn't measure temp precisely enough before starting. Everything else in my process I know I hit spot on as before.

    Thanks for the help in advance,

    Guy

  10. #280
    zsas's Avatar
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    As far as what color Dev Part C should look like, mine looks like Merlot wine. I have had my kit about a month, mixed half as working solution, you see below the other half, that I have not mixed.



    Re you issue, gosh, 330ml of working solution for three rolls of film seem a bit "thin". When I run 1 roll of 35 or 120, I use 500ml, just to ensure enough of the active agents in the chemistry are there. It might be a bit conservative, but has worked for me. Although I process by hand so maybe 330ml on a Jobo is normal.

    Not sure what the min amount of developer per roll Digibase recommends, it might be in here?
    http://www.freestylephoto.biz/pdf/pr...structions.pdf
    Last edited by zsas; 08-21-2011 at 08:26 PM. Click to view previous post history.



 

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