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  1. #341
    zsas's Avatar
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    Ahhhh I see, you could try it w a test roll of no value, if you have the time, $ and desire to risk it. I personally wd not risk it, I plan to mix up new Digibase with my replacement, I've a stockpile of film to process now. If you do try, post your results. According to Rollei (Sebastian) earlier in this thread, deep purple means expired part C (oxidized).

  2. #342
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    A few doubts that I need to clear, before begining c-41 develop with rollei digibase. I have a jobo processor cpe2 and will use it for this and due to not knowing the various rollei kits for n rolls, I thought of maximazing the c-41 and develop 5 rolls at a time and so bought the 1530 extention tank to add to my 1520 (2 rolls). The latter takes 240ml for rototion dev plus the 330ml of the 1530, so I have to use a total of 570ml for 5 films, correct?
    To make 600ml of working solution (also the quantite of the jobo bottles and the maximum amount that jobo tells one to use in rotation, for not stressing the engine) I have to buy the rollei kitt for 50-60 rolls?
    For the developing, for what I read here, I will use the kodak/fuji, with washes after bleach and fix and possible after the color dev. My question is, the pre-wash, should I do a dry or wet prewash?
    And the washes during developing have to be at 37.8ºC? Also the washes have to be of 570-600 ml?
    Last edited by Rhodes; 01-11-2012 at 11:36 AM. Click to view previous post history.

  3. #343
    hrst's Avatar
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    Rhodes,

    Everything seems correct. There is a wash between bleach and fix but NO WASH between dev and bleach. If you insist adding a wash, then you must add an acid stop first, but it really is not necessary, just go directly to bleach. As a final wash after the fix, I would recommend at least seven wash cycles in Jobo. No matter how long you wash, you will get some pink color in the FR/STAB, but if it is deep pink or magenta, that's a sign of insufficient final wash.

    Prewash is a matter of taste. It's a good way to temper the films quickly. BUT, you have to use two wash cycles. One might not be enough to get the temperature up. Measure the latter one carefully to 37.8 or 37.9. Be quick but drain well before developer not to dilute it. If you are going to reuse the developer for several times, I would skip prewash because of accumulating dilution. If you do dry preheat, use a long enough time. Go with 10 minutes to be sure.

    Yes, the washes are of same temperature. But, only the developer (and maybe the last prewash cycle) are critical. Other steps, including washes, may vary several degrees without effects.

    Yes, use the same 570-600 ml for washes, too.

    A tip (if you use Jobo Lift): if possible, prepare a larger amount of final rinse/stab and do it outside of processor. If not possible, detach the tank, fill carefully with a funnel, insert the tank back manually etc. This way, you don't need to wash the processor lift system again from the stab residue, as it is already washed by the final wash.

  4. #344
    Rhodes's Avatar
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    Thanks, hrst! The wash bettwen the dev and bleach i read that it may be optional here: http://brodie-tyrrell.org/wiki/index.php?C41Processing "A quick wash step here (one change of water, approx 30s) will reduce forward-contamination of the bleach and prolong its life. Water is not a very effective stop agent however, so this bath should be long enough just to swill excess developer from the tank and spirals."
    Never thought about the dilution of the dev with a wet pre-wash. I have the lift but it's not mounted with because I still lack the cog for the tank, so first color dev I will do should be only with the magnet and I already know about not pouring the stabilizer trought the lift. Will do what many do and as you say, even without the lift.

  5. #345
    mikecnichols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hrst View Post
    Rhodes,

    Everything seems correct. There is a wash between bleach and fix but NO WASH between dev and bleach. If you insist adding a wash, then you must add an acid stop first, but it really is not necessary, just go directly to bleach. As a final wash after the fix, I would recommend at least seven wash cycles in Jobo. No matter how long you wash, you will get some pink color in the FR/STAB, but if it is deep pink or magenta, that's a sign of insufficient final wash.

    Prewash is a matter of taste. It's a good way to temper the films quickly. BUT, you have to use two wash cycles. One might not be enough to get the temperature up. Measure the latter one carefully to 37.8 or 37.9. Be quick but drain well before developer not to dilute it. If you are going to reuse the developer for several times, I would skip prewash because of accumulating dilution. If you do dry preheat, use a long enough time. Go with 10 minutes to be sure.

    Yes, the washes are of same temperature. But, only the developer (and maybe the last prewash cycle) are critical. Other steps, including washes, may vary several degrees without effects.

    Yes, use the same 570-600 ml for washes, too.

    A tip (if you use Jobo Lift): if possible, prepare a larger amount of final rinse/stab and do it outside of processor. If not possible, detach the tank, fill carefully with a funnel, insert the tank back manually etc. This way, you don't need to wash the processor lift system again from the stab residue, as it is already washed by the final wash.
    I've wondered about that a bit myself when doing my prewash. Would a dry preheat consist of weighing down the tank to be submerged in the tempering water bath? I might like to try that method since it usually takes 10-15 minutes for my chems to get up to temp anyway.

  6. #346
    polyglot's Avatar
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    The standard C41 times make the assumption that there is a pre-wet. Without a pre-wet, the developer activity is different (higher I think), therefore you would perhaps need to adjust your times slightly.

    Yes, you do need to be careful to drain as much as possible of the pre-wet in order to not dilute the developer. However, I don't think it's a significant problem - my measurements show that there's maybe 10-15mL of water left in the tank (stuck to spirals and walls and stuff) which against the 1L of developer I use, is only 1.5%. The developer (Fuji) gets reused about 5 times, for a total dilution change of 7%, which is IMHO basically irrelevant and certainly less than the effect of exhaustion for which you already need to apply a time extension.

  7. #347

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    may be worth reading...

    Always do right. This will gratify some people and astonish the rest. -- Mark Twain

  8. #348
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    Some one should make a video FULLY explaining everything from the mixing to the developing in a hand tank, because the instructions apparently suck

  9. #349
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    For those interested, I was informed by Freestyle that Rollei will no longer be producing the Maxi Kit. I would assume, that means in the US. I'm not sure about Europe.

  10. #350
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    Quote Originally Posted by mikecnichols View Post
    For those interested, I was informed by Freestyle that Rollei will no longer be producing the Maxi Kit. I would assume, that means in the US. I'm not sure about Europe.
    What about the midi and mini kits?
    Andy



 

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