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  1. #361
    Rhodes's Avatar
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    How do you make 1L of stabilizer with the 25ml botlle from the kit? The instrutions indicates that for 250ml solution one must use 225m of water and the 25ml of stab. For one liter is 100ml of stab.

  2. #362

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhodes View Post
    How do you make 1L of stabilizer with the 25ml botlle from the kit? The instrutions indicates that for 250ml solution one must use 225m of water and the 25ml of stab. For one liter is 100ml of stab.
    This really confused me as well. I bought the 20 roll kit and it only came with 50ml of the stab and indicated it needed 100ml for 1L stab. Everything else came with enough for 1L mixes. I was mixing 500ml at a time so I just used the whole 50ml for my 500ml mix (450ml water + 50ml stab). I just assumed that the whole 50ml would last long enough for 20 rolls. I have no idea what you would do for a full 1000ml mix.

    Maybe there is an issue with there packaging, or they want you to buy the bigger kit if you use L mixes

  3. #363

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    You’re right, sorry for the confusion. I used two bottles of stabilizer (one from each kit) to mix one liter. I just looked at the packing list and they should have been 50ml bottles, not 25. I hope they were. I think I just remembered wrong.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rhodes View Post
    How do you make 1L of stabilizer with the 25ml botlle from the kit? The instrutions indicates that for 250ml solution one must use 225m of water and the 25ml of stab. For one liter is 100ml of stab.

  4. #364
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    Not at all, I was just trying to see if I did some mistake, because the digibase kits have a set of instrutions and then in the chemicals bottles, they have diffrent ones (and in the pdf instr. file, they have mix ones also, the temp for doing the solutions is what i remember better).
    I did my first stab with tap water but had problems, because the negs were all cover in white foam, the water here is very har, so I did a second stab solution with distiled water for yesterday. But got the same problem, not has much or has much visual, but after scanning few negs were full of white spots.
    By the way, in the Landfords Darkroom Guide book, in the color developing, the kodak times have a wash cycle after fixer and before stab, is that right? Or do you all do a wash after fixing?

    Edit: found the answer myself. Yester day I forgott to wash after the fixer, arrrggggghhhhhhh!!!

  5. #365

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    Just did my very first C-41 4x5s using maxi kit and they turned out absolutely flawless! 9 negs in a Jobo 3010 with a DIY "cupped" expert cap (500ml cup half-open at the top epoxied to the bottom). Used boiled water left to cool for everyhing, 416 ml chems, preheated for 2-3 minutes, two short presoaks, pulled a bit (2'55"-3'00") to reduce contrast (internegs on 100T). Drum was vigorously rolled back and forth on a 6-foot table, temp kept with a "modified" 300W steel fish tank heater in a home-made large epoxy/polyurethane tray and used drift-through (start at 39 deg.C). Stabilized in a separate plastic container. Questions: how much replenishment necessary for the developer to reduce development variation enough?

  6. #366

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rhodes View Post
    Edit: found the answer myself. Yester day I forgott to wash after the fixer, arrrggggghhhhhhh!!!
    So your suppose to wash after the fixer? The directions don't say this. What other steps are you suppose to wash for the Digi c41 kit?

  7. #367

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    Quote Originally Posted by shuttershane View Post
    So your suppose to wash after the fixer? The directions don't say this. What other steps are you suppose to wash for the Digi c41 kit?
    I thought washing after fixing was standard on all processes (e.g., BW, E-6, C-41)...?

  8. #368
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    I and as many other people use the kodak or fuji times anf steps for c-41 dev with the digibase kits. And yes, we must wash after fixing. I asked about the consequences and how/what to do to the negs, in a different thread: http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/1...er-fixing.html
    I think when first developed c-41 I wash after fixing, but when I was looking to the steps/time table that I made to be near the processor, I thought, strange, in E6 one must wash after the fizer, but the c41 only have a wash cycle, but never thought of going to see all the steps here.

  9. #369
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    I wash for one minute after the bleach step, and then for just over three minutes after the fixer step. I added these steps to the included instruction sheet so that I wouldn't forget them. I don't know if these wash steps are strictly required, but I read about them here, incorporated them, and get great results. It seems logical to me to wash after bleach and fix so that the chemicals undergo as little contamination as possible, especially since bleach and fix have such larger reuse life.

  10. #370

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    The Jobo cpa-2/cpp-2 manual says to rinse for 3 minutes after bleach and 5 minutes after fixer. It also says the number of water changes is important and recommend changing the water at 30 second intervals throughout the rinse period. They also note that a rinse should not be inserted between developer and bleach, as doing so may increase contrast and density. Lastly, it says to use the stabilizer out of the tanks and reels or processing contamination will eventually result.



 

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