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  1. #401

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    One year after opening the bottle and you have to use anti-oxidant protection gas like Tetenal protectan. The para-Phenylene Diamine is the critical component in that part C C41 developer. If it is turning to Purple it is not OK anymore.

    Bleach and Fixer are not critical at all. Also not the Stabilizer and Starter.

  2. #402
    polyglot's Avatar
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    Macodirect also sells the active ingredients separately (100mL and 1000mL quantities).

  3. #403

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    I just read the whole thread, well scanned some of it.

    The instructions for my C41 mini kit (500ml) is confusing to me when used on the stabilizer with a Jobo 1540 tank.
    Per the instructions for my Jobo 1540 tank:
    Developer 470ml Rotation (Water 325ml, Part A 47ml, Part B 47 ml, Part C 47ml, Starter 4.7ml)
    Bleacher 470ml Rotation (Water 338ml, Bleach 132 ml)
    Fixer 470ml Rotation (Water 376ml, Fixer 94 ml)
    Stabilizer 470ml Rotation (Water 423ml, Stabilizer 47ml) Supplied size is 25ml of stabilizer

    I assume that since the instructions specifically state a Jobo tank size, in my case the 1540 that I need 470ml of fluid to properly cover the film in a rotation setup. Thus the stabilizer in the mini kit at 25ml is not enough for this tank and I should use a larger kit to ensure I have at least 470ml for each chemical. Is this correct?

    Instructions attached
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Screen Shot 2012-11-08 at 9.09.25 AM.png  

  4. #404
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    First of all, welcome on APUG.

    To answer you question:

    Stabilizer is not used inside the tank and certainly not inside a Jobo tank linked to a "lift".
    The correct operation is to repeatedly and maniacally wash the tank with the film, and the Jobo lift if any, after fixing.

    Then you extract your films one by one and wash them in a container where you prepared some diluted stabilizer. I personally use a round glass food container (Frigoverre, if you are Italian you possibly know them) which is not much larger and not much taller than my reels.

    After one minute or so in the bath (with a little agitation) you take the film away, hang it to dry, and repeat the operation with the second film, then the third and so on*.

    Stabilizer can be reused many times, until it remains transparent it is fine. Just wash the fixer very well before putting the film in the stabilizer. Washing the fixer is something mandatory in any case.

    The instructions of the Digibase kit don't mention a wash bath between bleach and fixer. That's not very kosher.

    Sequence should be:
    Developer
    (acid arrest, optional)
    Bleach
    Wash
    Fixer
    Wash very well
    Stabilizer

    For modern C-41 film any stabilizer will do, so if you happen to be short of stabilizer for whatever reason you can use a stabilizer sold for slide film or a stabilizer from another kit. Anything labelled "final bath" or "stabilizer" will work. A simple "foto-flo" or something labelled "surfectant" will not be enough.

    * Some people on APUG will actually advice against putting the reel inside the stabilizer. In that case you would extract the film from the reel and put it in the stabilizer. It's a bit more messy for sure. I immediately wash the reels with soap after the stabilizer.
    Fabrizio Ruggeri fine art photography site: http://fabrizio-ruggeri.artistwebsites.com
    Stock images at Imagebroker: http://www.imagebroker.com/#/search/ib_fbr

  5. #405

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    Perfect, thank you. My father was Italian but only taught me curse words which I am sure will come in handy developing film :-)

  6. #406
    AgX
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    Quote Originally Posted by Diapositivo View Post
    Some people on APUG will actually advice against putting the reel inside the stabilizer. In that case you would extract the film from the reel and put it in the stabilizer. It's a bit more messy for sure. I immediately wash the reels with soap after the stabilizer.
    With a Jobo-type reel it just means to unlock and take off the upper spiral, turn around the lower spiral above a small bassin with stabilizer and let the film fall into it. Not a mess I suppose.

  7. #407
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    I personally find that doing stabiliser while film is still in the reel is a good idea, though I take the reels from the tank and do them individually as Diapositivo suggests. If you unspool the film (in 120 at least) and slosh it around gently in a container, the corners of the roll will scratch the soft emulsion - that one I learned the hard way.

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by polyglot View Post
    I personally find that doing stabiliser while film is still in the reel is a good idea, though I take the reels from the tank and do them individually as Diapositivo suggests. If you unspool the film (in 120 at least) and slosh it around gently in a container, the corners of the roll will scratch the soft emulsion - that one I learned the hard way.
    Not just, but if the film is a 135 the coils will tend to come very near to each other (difficult to explain in words: just try) thus not favouring a proper bath of the film. In order to be sure that the film is well soaked in the bath one should take some tweezers and separate the coils. I prefer keeping the film in the reel because that way I am certain that the film is well soaked. YMMV.
    Fabrizio Ruggeri fine art photography site: http://fabrizio-ruggeri.artistwebsites.com
    Stock images at Imagebroker: http://www.imagebroker.com/#/search/ib_fbr

  9. #409

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    Just clean the reels with soap and an old toothbrush. Easy to do.
    - Bill Lynch

  10. #410
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    Quote Originally Posted by wblynch View Post
    Just clean the reels with soap and an old toothbrush. Easy to do.
    A blast of hot water (50C from the tap) is sufficient.



 

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