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 Originally Posted by JLP
I am quite surpriced to see that there is no stop and washing mentioned in the processing sequence, that must be a mistake or is it not?
Yes you are right, i had not even thought about that the instructions do not include stop and wash. I saw that as kind of common sense and have used a quick wash between bleach and fix, and also a good wash before the stabilizer. As stop i have used both a weak acetic and citric acid solution, but i think it does not do much more good than just plain water.
I guess that it can be used without it but the chems will last a bit longer with.
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 Originally Posted by epatsellis
Has anybody run a control strip with this chemistry? It would answer a lot of questions and resolve any lingering doubts.
If they weren't so expensive I would do exactly that, so I instead I am photographing a gray card and reading the densities on my color densitometer in each channel, comparing them to a roll developed by a pro lab.
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I've been eyeing on Rollei Digibase C-41 chemicals too. I'm a C-41 rookie with less than 20 rolls' experience with Tetenal kit. I have my second Tetenal 1 litre kit in use (first half) and I've thinking of trying out another C-41 kit next. I've almost set my mind to buy Fuji Hunt 5 litre kit but based on this thread, I think I'll try a small kit of Rollei Digibase first. Or maybe I order both Rollei ja Fuji Hunt and use them side by side.
// Nikon F100 / Nikon EM / Rollei XF 35 / Minolta Hi-matic 7s / Mamiya M645 1000s / Yashicaflex / Welta Weltax //
Flickr / Blog
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Greg, are you using a step tablet type card? If you can, you want to check tracking at various densities throughout the tonal range to detect crossover and other color anamolies.
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No, I'll just be shooting a standard Kodak Gray Card and a Macbeth Color Chart. Ideally, the gray card should be of equal value on each color channel on the densitometer. A variation would indicate a color shift. It's as close as I can get without a process control strip, but since those are so expensive, I will have to make due without.
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Greg, you could shoot the gray card and bracket like -4 to +4 to simulate a step chart.
I'm interested to hear what your experiences are. I'm thinking of either ordering this kit of the Formulary kit. This one is cheaper and a good size, but the Formulary kit is Kodak.
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Kodak Q-13 step tablet would give you a color neutral scale, reasonably priced and well worth the effort.
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I have already shot and processed the film. I am picking up the lab roll this afternoon. Tomorrow I will read the densities and begin printing and scanning for evaluation. I included a Macbeth color checker in the shot, so I have reference colors and gray patches, as well as a gray card and skin tone (my hands). On first impressions, the 68º roll has lower density despite careful temperature control, agitation, and development time. The 77º and 100º look identical in density, but I cannot judge the color balance until I either print, scan, or read it on a densitometer. I'll post the results as soon as I have them.
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Looking forward to it Greg.
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Has Greg had the time to go through with the comparison?
// Nikon F100 / Nikon EM / Rollei XF 35 / Minolta Hi-matic 7s / Mamiya M645 1000s / Yashicaflex / Welta Weltax //
Flickr / Blog
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