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  1. #1
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    Prints from slides

    Is there an other option besides Ilfochrome, besides digital scanning and printing, for printing directly from transparencies? I shoot mostly black and white and process and print it myself. I also process my own E-6, but I then scan the image and print on an inkjet. I know I could try Ilfochrome, but I hear it is very difficult to do well and frequently requires contrast masks. I would like to hear about any other options before I invest the time in learning Ilfochrome printing. I have a Jobo, and a color enlarger.

  2. #2
    Les McLean's Avatar
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    Ilfochrome is by far the best way to make prints from transparencies and although there are some difficulties relating to contrast control I don't think that making contrast masks is the only solution. I have used two bath black and white print developer in a Jobo to deal with the high contrast problems with great success. You need to make a test to determine development time in each bath, and that is not difficult. I have made prints from the same transparency using the two bath black and white dev and then using the Ilfochrome chemicals and the reduction in contrast using two bath is hugely significant. I first did this some 20 years ago and the prints are still in pristine condition today so there is no loss in permamence. I also used ordinary black and white fixer but had to use the Ilfochrome bleach.

  3. #3
    David A. Goldfarb's Avatar
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    I think part of the contrast problem with Ilfochrome is the increased preference for contrasty oversaturated slide films like Velvia and E100VS. When I was doing Cibachrome frequently, back when it was still Cibachrome, I rarely needed more than ordinary dodging and burning when printing from less contrasty films like Agfachrome 100 and Kodachrome 25.

  4. #4
    Shesh's Avatar
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    I have gotten my slides printed locally by a lab which uses "Durst Epsilon Digital Photographic Printer" printed onto Kodak Endura paper. This is supposed to be archival. The quality of the prints is the best I have seen in comparison to other slide to print processes.
    Cheers, Shesh

    Not to know what happened before one was born is always to be a child - Cicero

  5. #5
    gma
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    According to the Ilford website the new Ilfochrome (Cibachrome's new name) is now available in three contrast grades rather than one as before. I do not know if every lab keeps all three grades in stock, but you would think they should. I just had some 16x20 enlargements made at a pro lab in Texas from Velvia 50 4x5 transparencies and the saturated colors are very true to the originals.

  6. #6
    Stan. L-B's Avatar
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    The most salient points have already been made. You do not say which JOBO you have, but it seems you have all the kit required for making first class archival prints from the Ilfochrom P30P system. The is no substitute for getting stuck into new fields of the craft. All is so well documented that time the time scale to reach proficiency is much better than of yesteryear. I use the CPP2 Jobo (Lift) with Expert tanks and drums to 24X20. It makes so much more fun, and experimentation is the major part of it!
    I am yet to be convinced that any digital printing is superior to that of the wet processes, but then, I am of an age that makes me suspicious of change for change sake. Long live the old Cibachrome process, never really bettered - or even challenged!

  7. #7
    L Gebhardt's Avatar
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    Thanks for the responses. I think I will order a couple of packs of 8x10 paper, some chemistry and a print drum and give Ilfochrome a try. Is there any thing else I need? Is there a good tutorial out there, or is the documentatioin with the paper/chemistry good enough to get started?

  8. #8
    Stan. L-B's Avatar
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    Yes, there is enough information supplied with the product. Should you get stuck I am confident you will get the answers to any query you may have from this forum. We are fortunate to have experts on board in the form of Less McLean. Do not forget to get the 'JOBO' to a couple of degrees higher on the readout so that the working temp is spot on.



 

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