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  1. #11
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoffy View Post
    I know that I am only a "Johnny Come Lately", but if everyone pooled their resources from APUG and other Film based communities, would Kodak consider doing that? Maybe with the help of someone such as Freestyle behind them?
    Kodak has indeed taken special orders and made film cut to special sizes. The same is true of Ilford. Kodak, AFAIK, will not coat to order, but will custom cut and package existing products given enough orders.

    PE

  2. #12
    hoffy's Avatar
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    OK, digging this back up again. I haven't gotten there yet, but am keen. I have decided that I will go tray processing first and see how I go.

    In relation to the Blix found in tetenal, hrst alluded that it is "crap". Without knowing poo from clay, can someone please justify this comment? What makes the tetenal blix so bad? (also considering that I will be purchasing my chemicals in Australia, where Tetenal is realistically the only choice, unless buying commercial quantities).

    Cheers

  3. #13
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    Blix has only one function: it has to work, without staining the image. If it does not work, it's really bad. This is the case with Tetenal blix, in many cases. If you happen to get it very fresh, it will probably work perfectly, but you need to check for the production serial number and ask Tetenal about the manufacture date. If it's older than 6 months, which is usually the case, don't buy it.

    This applies of course only to the 2.5 liter kit which is pre-mixed. 5 liter kit supposedly comes with two separate concentrates and people say it doesn't suffer from this problem.

    You can use APUG search function to search for more information. I have started a thread concerning this about two years ago, but there are also problems reported by others.

    The problem with defective Tetenal blix is brownish staining in whites, retained silver causing dark, muddy and blurry images with muted colors, and/or retained halides causing print to darken in light. When it worked, it worked for a week or two and then died. Probably because sometimes it was "almost dead" off-the-shelf and sometimes completely dead. Kodak seems to work after 6 months, mixed!

    Tetenal gave me one kit of this stuff as a compensation, which suffered the same problems, but not as severe as it was a bit more fresh. First they didn't admit the problem but later they admitted it and stated they are going to change the product to solve the problems. I don't know about the current state of things but to be sure, I would suggest buying kits that have blix divided in two separated concentrates to be mixed by user.

  4. #14
    hoffy's Avatar
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    Thanks

  5. #15

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    It's hoffy's thread but I am not sure I have seen a definitive answer on whether Fuji CA can be adequately processed in Kodak chems at room temp. There are some real advantages to room temp processing but unless Fuji CA and Kodak RA4 chemicals are compatible at room temp then it could be a non starter.

    I trust those Kodak paper users who say that Kodak paper and room temp processing is compatible and I have had great results in the past with Supra Endura at 95 degrees F but I don't realy want to trust to providence that somehow we can collectively form a group and persuade Kodak to cut sheet sizes and deliver especially as I am across the Atlantic in the U.K. where there is a relatively small group of RA4 processing APUGers.

    I can't be alone in thinking that Kodak paper is excellent. Since the Kodak announcement the remaining stocks of cut sheet Kodak Supra Endura has gone through the roof price-wise, here in the U.K.

    pentaxuser

  6. #16

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    I can't speak to the Kodak chemicals side of the equation, since I've never used Kodak RA-4 developer; however, I've processed Fuji CA paper in other brands and mix-it-yourself formulas at room temperature without problems. In fact, I just did some prints that way a few days ago. Room temperature in my darkroom lately has been about 85F/30C, but it dips much lower in the winter. I'd have to check my notes to be 100% sure I've done Fuji CA in the 68F/20C range, but I'd say that's likely.

  7. #17
    hoffy's Avatar
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    Thanks all.

    Two more questions.

    Tetenal 5L kits - I am assuming I can break these up and only mix as much as I need at a time (typically for me, that is around 600ml per tray)? I also read that the working solution can last up to 6 weeks. Is that correct and does that stand true for both the developer and the blix?

    Tray warmers? This is something that I have come across in some of the books and old magazines I have been reading, but have seen very little on the net. Do people still use them? If so, would they go up to the 30ish deg C that is required?

    Cheers

  8. #18
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    DO IT! We all need help keeping it alive.
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  9. #19
    hoffy's Avatar
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    Don't worry 2F. I am going to do it. Its just, typically I over analyze things....... OK, more simply put, I don't want to spend a load of cash on gear that is not going to get the results that I want!

  10. #20
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    Hoff, I have been following this thread since it's inception and been doing some thinking.

    I have left over from a large colour printing job, three AGFA 5 litre RA4 kits.

    When AGFA went belly-up I went into Vanbar in Melbourne and bought about 15 of these kits, plus I went around the Melbourne camera shops that had one or more of these and bought them all up. In short, I bought most of the in-store stock of these kits in Melbourne. About 30 +- in all.

    Well late last year I used ten kits for a big print run and early this year after the summer heat died down, I used six more.

    I have been thinking, that you may be interested in the remaining kits I have.

    I have sort of decided that as I get closer to retirement, and subsequently spending more time travelling outback, colour printing with the inherent time required in the darkroom, will have less appeal in the short term to myself.

    Colour printing to me, has been good for making some colour prints for myself and other people, but for my own personal work I prefer B&W, always have and probably always will.

    These kits were still very good in March this year, but I fear that by this time next year when I would probably print colour again, they may be off.

    Mick.

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