Ektar and overexposure

[stevebrot]

I just got back two rolls of Ektar 100 (120 format) that I shot a few weeks ago, I know, I know I'm a slacker and should shoot and process more often. What I have noticed in this latest batch is that when I shot in bright direct sun at ISO 100 settings I got great results, setting for ISO 100 in indirect sunlight did not produce results that were nearly as nice...

Are you getting a color cast? Skylight (open shade) is not the same as daylight in terms of color temperature. A mild warming filter might be your friend here.


Steve

[L Gebhardt]

Hey Tim:

WHO optical prints anymore ??

Must be only hobby or custom jobs I would think.

The BIG question is how much UNDER or OVER does it matter when it's in the hybrid workflow ? This will wake up a few !!

SO everybody... what's YOUR thoughts !!

Thanks

Scott

Scott, I optically print. I find I get good results quicker optically printing vs scan and inkjet. And it's cheaper if you have many prints to make. Now that Kodak and Fuji have reduced their paper range to not have a low contrast paper it has gotten harder, but even making a contrast reducing mask is fairly quick.

[hrst]

Actually, Ektar might rock 4 stops over! It's a matter of taste and I find color neg films very versatile, all-around products as the "look" can be varied even without changing the film or processing. Huge overexposures, up to 5 stops or so, can create an interesting, dreamy, yet technically flawless look that will be very easy to print also optically on any enlarger --- but a bit hard to scan on most consumer-level scanners due to CCD noise. Most people don't probably bracket color negs, but bracketing 0, +2, +4 stops might be interesting. Underexposure side is not so interesting in my opinion as it doesn't boost color contrast as much as with chrome films.

The box speed is the "default" way to go. 1/3 stop to either direction doesn't mean so much, however.

[2F/2F]

I'd rate it at nothing but the box speed unless I wanted to apply the same amount of exposure compensation to the entire roll. ISO film speeds work fine for almost any application I have.

So, the film is ISO 100. Just ask the ISO. The real question is, with Ektar, when would you want to apply the same amount of exposure compensation to the entire roll?

My hypothetical answer would be that if shooting the entire roll in the same contrasty light, I would generally down rate the film in order to open up the lower tones to detail and texture, on every picture.

My real answer is that I would probably never use Ektar in such contrasty light that it would require across the board EC, via downrating or any other method.

[dynachrome]

I shot a roll of 35mm Ektar 100 today in a Konica FT-1. The light was bright in open areas and shaded elsewhere. I shot the whole roll at 64. In flatter light the color cast can be off if I don't give it a little extra exposure. The film's overexposure lattitude is much better than its underexposure lattitude so shooting at 64 works fine.

[ajuk]

I've not had to adjust for time, but it does go green.

[benjiboy]

Undoubtedly Ektar has some latitude to underexposure, but I think Kodak know a thing or two about what speed their films are, and unless I have a good reason I rate it at the box speed as I do any film, and I think that automatically down rating colour neg films for the sake of it is a mistake .

[Sirius Glass]

Undoubtedly Ektar has some latitude to underexposure, but I think Kodak know a thing or two about what speed their films are, and unless I have a good reason I rate it at the box speed as I do any film, and I think that automatically down rating colour neg films for the sake of it is a mistake .

I love it when an automatic film down rater starts rants that I shot X at half the box speed and the film is crap!

Steve

[benjiboy]

I love it when an automatic film down rater starts rants that I shot X at half the box speed and the film is crap!

Steve

That's what I was thinking, but I was trying to be diplomatic

[John_Nikon_F]

ASA 64 is fine here.

-J