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  1. #1

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    Provia 400X pushed to ISO 1600

    Hello,

    I know there has been some discussion on this topic and I have also seen some successful examples of Provia 400X pushed to ISO 1600.

    I have just got one roll of 400X I have exposed with a Mamiya 6 under different conditions. Most of the photos look underexposed. Even worse - there seem to be no true black in the slides. The slides also look rather flat. I will examine them into more details with a loupe on light table once I get home. But the first impression is not that great.

    I will scan some of these, but probably will not manage before Friday (I leave for vacation and would like to used pushed 400X there ...)

    So - I am wondering what is your experience. Do you expose the 400X and ISO 1600 and have it developed +2N or you expose it at somewhat lower ISO while keeping the development at +2N ?

    How do you proceed when you want to push only to ISO 800?

    Caveat I: The Mamiya 6 is rather new to me. But being aware of possible underexposure resulting of how the metering behaves I did for most occasions two exposures (one "direct" metering and one avoiding highlights in the viewfinder that did not belong to image like lamps or bright sky). At the same time I have exposed one Provia 100F and one Velvia 100 films with the same metering technique in in most cases only the "second" exposure is correct.

    Caveat II: the lab I am using does always a great job (they do only slides) so I do not suspect any problems there.

  2. #2
    Erik Petersson's Avatar
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    I have got interesting results, although the contrast is very high. Colours are a little off. Here is a link to some of the pictures. I exposed the film on 1600 and asked the lab to press it two stops.

    http://erikpetersson.livejournal.com/20913.html
    http://pics.livejournal.com/erikpetersson/pic/00044twh/
    http://pics.livejournal.com/erikpetersson/pic/0004b96x/

  3. #3
    Athiril's Avatar
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    Someone on flickr sat it in a dev tank with nothing but mercury vapour for 2 days pre-developing, post-exposure, and apparently seems to get more developable shadow detail.

  4. #4
    Josh Harmon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Athiril View Post
    Someone on flickr sat it in a dev tank with nothing but mercury vapour for 2 days pre-developing, post-exposure, and apparently seems to get more developable shadow detail.
    Isnt that just film hyper-sensitization?
    Cameras:
    Canon EOS Elan II/E, Elan 7, and 630. -- Bronica ETRS -- Pentax 6x7
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  5. #5
    hrst's Avatar
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    Push processing reduces DMAX. This is not a problem for those who print or scan, but for projection this can be a major drawback, because film is usually pushed when speed is needed in dark night shots, and that's when DMAX is crucial for pictures to look good.

  6. #6
    Athiril's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Harmon View Post
    Isnt that just film hyper-sensitization?
    I dont really know sorry.

  7. #7
    Rudeofus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh Harmon View Post
    Isnt that just film hyper-sensitization?
    Whatever it is, I sure wouldn't want even traces of (non contained) mercury vapor around my home ...

  8. #8
    Athiril's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rudeofus View Post
    Whatever it is, I sure wouldn't want even traces of (non contained) mercury vapor around my home ...
    I cant remember his source, but break a cheap thermometer and sticking it in the bottom of a plastic hand dev tank and sealing it up does the trick, then putting the film in once the reel is loaded etc.

  9. #9
    2F/2F's Avatar
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    Well, there has already been some great advice in this thread so far, so I don't think I can add anything...
    2F/2F

    "Truth and love are my law and worship. Form and conscience are my manifestation and guide. Nature and peace are my shelter and companions. Order is my attitude. Beauty and perfection are my attack."

    - Rob Tyner (1944 - 1991)

  10. #10

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    I've pushed the original formulation of Provia 400 two stops, and had it developed with a two stop push. The results were very good. The shots were taken both in daylight and very dim artificial light (actually, formations in a cavern). As I recall, Fuji's spec sheet states that 400X can be pushed to 1600. If you are having problems it is probably not the film.

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