Switch to English Language Passer en langue française Omschakelen naar Nederlandse Taal Wechseln Sie zu deutschen Sprache Passa alla lingua italiana
Members: 71,042   Posts: 1,560,747   Online: 1094
      
Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast
Results 21 to 30 of 36
  1. #21
    Rudeofus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,723
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by Marco B View Post
    Eh... "Room temperature was 28°C"... we don't have that regularly here in the Netherlands or many other mid to northern European countries.
    First, this room temperature (and higher) was sustained for several weeks this summer in Central Europe. I did include an analysis in this thread to which extent lower room temperatures would increase the temperature drop.
    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    It was shown that adding the chemical reversing bath to the color developer was not a good idea. That is why Kodak and Fuji keep them as separate stages, as it increases capacity and lifetime of the two solutions.
    So splitting these two bathes mostly improves shelf live of stock and working solution but doesn't have much effect on the resulting slide?

  2. #22
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    13,228
    Not crazy! Temperature and time are the most critical factors. Control them and the world is yours.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  3. #23
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    23,259
    Images
    65
    Well, the carryover of bleach into fix in the "real" E6 decreases the life of the fix. I use a rinse between the two. Of course, that may be viewed by some as decreasing the effective activity of the fix. I have seen that happen.

    OTOH, the addition of the reversal chemistry into the CD step will shorten the life of the CD and reversal chemistry. IDK what they use, but Stannous Chloride is what EK and Fuji use at present, and it is not all that stable itself. It is one of the kit members that goes bad first along with the color developing agent itself. So, none of these are perfect solutions (pun alert) to the E6 problems.

    Having free formalin in the final Stabilizer is not the best of all possible worlds either.

    Just some random offhand thoughts on both types of kits.

    PE

  4. #24
    drumlin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Chapel Hill NC
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    199
    Images
    13
    Wow, thanks everyone. I guess I should have expected nothing but encouraging advice in a forum such as this. I think I wanted to be talked into it.

    I've looked for the Tetenal kit and come up with nothing. Looks like they aren't making it anymore. Looks like I can get the Kodak from Calumet.

    I probably won't get around to running a batch for at least a month or so (Calumet says 7-14 days before available), but if I have problems or anything interesting to report, I'll do so here.

    Happy to keep the discussion alive...

  5. #25
    Marco B's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    The Netherlands
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    2,983
    Images
    169
    All you probably ever want to know about formalin and (dye) stability of color films:

    http://photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00FuCx
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/2...ubstitute.html

    Marco
    My website

    "The nineteenth century began by believing that what was reasonable was true, and it wound up by believing that what it saw a photograph of, was true." - William M. Ivins Jr.

    "I don't know, maybe we should disinvent color, and we could just shoot Black & White." - David Burnett in 1978

    "Analog is chemistry + physics, digital is physics + math, which ones did you like most?"

  6. #26
    Rudeofus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    1,723
    Images
    10
    Quote Originally Posted by drumlin View Post
    I've looked for the Tetenal kit and come up with nothing. Looks like they aren't making it anymore. Looks like I can get the Kodak from Calumet
    B&H does carry the Tetenal kits, but they seem to be more available in continental Europe. That may also explain why Europeans mostly recommend the Tetenal kit while UK/US folks mostly recommend the Kodak kit (which is barely available in continental Europe, and no, I won't pay for shipment of a dev kit across the ocean).

  7. #27
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    23,259
    Images
    65
    Quote Originally Posted by Marco B View Post
    All you probably ever want to know about formalin and (dye) stability of color films:

    http://photo.net/film-and-processing-forum/00FuCx
    http://www.apug.org/forums/forum43/2...ubstitute.html

    Marco
    Marco;

    I have summarized the role of formalin in old and new color films in a new "myths" section on Photo Net. You may be interested in that as well. AFAIK, the new section has not been added to the older portions though. It exists as separate threads.

    PE

  8. #28
    Sirius Glass's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Southern California
    Shooter
    Multi Format
    Posts
    13,228
    Quote Originally Posted by drumlin View Post
    Wow, thanks everyone. I guess I should have expected nothing but encouraging advice in a forum such as this. I think I wanted to be talked into it.

    I've looked for the Tetenal kit and come up with nothing. Looks like they aren't making it anymore. Looks like I can get the Kodak from Calumet.

    I probably won't get around to running a batch for at least a month or so (Calumet says 7-14 days before available), but if I have problems or anything interesting to report, I'll do so here.

    Happy to keep the discussion alive...
    Check FreeStyle, also an APUG supporter. FreeStyle is probably cheaper.

    Steve
    Warning!! Handling a Hasselblad can be harmful to your financial well being!

    Nothing beats a great piece of glass!

    I leave the digital work for the urologists and proctologists.

  9. #29
    drumlin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Chapel Hill NC
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    199
    Images
    13
    Okay, so I bought the Kodak kit and the solutions are warming up now. Great way to spend a Friday afternoon off with the wife gone...

    One critical question -- what's the waste management protocol for each of these chems?? I keep my B&W fixer and take it to a local lab that does C41 (not the one that spurred this post/adventure in the first place), but what about all this other stuff I just mixed up? I looked at the Kodak environmental recommendations, and they seem to say everything but the fixer (pre-Ag recovery) is fine for the drain. What do you folks do?

  10. #30
    drumlin's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Chapel Hill NC
    Shooter
    Medium Format
    Posts
    199
    Images
    13
    Just finished processing 4 rolls of stuff I popped off casually at a state park.

    Conclusion --- If you are reading this wondering if E6 processing is overboard or too hard, it's not and it is WAY COOL to unroll those slides and see the actual image in gorgeous saturated color jumping out at you. I'm a convert.

    I bought a cheap roaster from Wally world, and I'm taking it back, since it didn't have very good temp controls. I ended up just using a water bath in a cooler just like I do for important B&W work, except I was using a kettle of hot water more than ice. It took a couple hours to get everything pretty stable temp-wise (probably me being over-careful.... could have probably dialed it in sooner.) My hot tap water is around 120* F, so that's a good starting point for a bath to get things warmed up.

    I still might look into some kind of cheap, semi-automated temp control like a roaster oven or aquarium heater, but now that I've done it once, I'm not scared of the process. Thanks again all for the advice.

Page 3 of 4 FirstFirst 1234 LastLast


 

APUG PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Contact Us  |  Support Us!  |  Advertise  |  Site Terms  |  Archive  —   Search  |  Mobile Device Access  |  RSS  |  Facebook  |  Linkedin