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  1. #1
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    Best route if I want to try color printing?

    Since I have some color negatives right now, I want to try color printing. I have two enlargers, one condenser/incandescent MF enlarger and one diffusion/cold light 4x5 enlarger. I have everything needed to print B&W. I just don't know what I need to buy to get started with color. Is this a good shopping list, or is there a better way to get started?

    Fuji Crystal Archive 8x10 paper
    http://freestylephoto.biz/07586757-F...00?cat_id=1201

    What's the difference between "Type Super C" and "Pro Super Type PD"?


    Arista color print processing kit
    http://freestylephoto.biz/11812-Aris...er?cat_id=1004

    Is the 2-liter kit enough? Can I use this in trays at room temperature? How long will it last?

    Color filters
    http://freestylephoto.biz/31633-Aris...22?cat_id=1602

    Can I use these below the lens? I will have to get the expensive 6" ones to print 4x5 if I have to put them above the negative. Is there anything else I need?
    f/22 and be there.

  2. #2
    Greg Davis's Avatar
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    You have what you need, but you may want to get a color print viewing filter set. Kodak used to make them, now Lee does. The cold light will not be a good choice to use, go with the condenser head. Dichroic color heads are going for cheap on the used market and will be of tremendous help.
    www.gregorytdavis.com

    Did millions of people suddenly disappear? This may have an answer.

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  3. #3
    BetterSense's Avatar
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    I have an old color print viewing set already.

    How come cold lights don't work well? I assume it's the color spectrum.
    f/22 and be there.

  4. #4
    Greg Davis's Avatar
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    That's right. The bulbs do not put out the entire color spectrum, so they do not reproduce colors well.
    www.gregorytdavis.com

    Did millions of people suddenly disappear? This may have an answer.

    "No one knows that day or hour, not even the angels in heaven, nor the Son, but only the Father." -Matthew 24:36

  5. #5

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    Your list is enough to start.

    > What's the difference between "Type Super C" and "Pro Super Type PD"?

    Type C is thinner and has "Fujicolor Crystal Archive Paper" on the backing. Type PD is noticeably thicker and has "FUJICOLOR Professional Paper If copyright applies, permission to reproduce required" on the back. They appear to have similar color response, but I have not tried side-by-side comparison. Unlike Kodak's papers, Fuji are much more sensitive for color filtration. However, once you get your filter pack right, the results are very comparable.

    > Is the 2-liter kit enough? Can I use this in trays at room temperature? How long will it last?

    I would recommend getting these instead:
    http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/KP04045/
    and
    http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/KP04043/

    Much more chemistry for not much more money. If you call freestyle on the phone, I think they can get them for you as well.
    The Arista kit doc lists room temperature times. I only tried it at 35C. Arista chemistry did not last for me as long as Kodak
    but I used it differently, so no good side by side comparison here.

    > Can I use these below the lens? I will have to get the expensive 6" ones to print 4x5 if I have to put them above the negative. Is there anything else I need?

    Sorry, don't know the answer. I'm using dichroic enlarger. I suspect that using the filters below the lens would affect sharpness of the print.

    One thing I don't see on your list is a safelight. If you are planning to use trays, definitely get a safelight that is acceptable for color paper.
    I believe it's the one that uses Wratten 13 filter. I personally use Jobo Maxilux and it works great!
    Last edited by anikin; 11-05-2010 at 05:25 PM. Click to view previous post history.

  6. #6

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    A small hint. The quickest way to get good color filtration is to take a photo of a gray card on the same type of film as your
    photos. Use that photo first to figure out filtration of the paper. Once you get close to gray with that negative, the rest of the roll
    can use exactly the same filter pack. Using an ordinary photo for figuring out filtration can be maddening experience ;-)


    Eugene.

  7. #7

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    The OP asks about Fuji paper at room temp. I have yet to see any response be it good or bad from those who have tried Fuji paper at room temp. Maybe no-one on APUG has tried it. We know from PE and others that Kodak paper responds well to room temp printing but as I understand the supply situation then unless you can cut rolls into sheets at home we will all have to use Fuji paper sooner or later

    So has no-one tried any kind of RA4 chemicals with Fuji paper at room temp?

    I agree with the comment that Fuji's paper is much more sensitive to colour fitration than Kodak' and this is not to its advantage IMO.

    So we have Kodak paper that scores better on two counts( room temp and less sensitivity) and we end up with the inferior paper becoming the last man standing. Incredible!!

    pentaxuser

  8. #8
    hrst's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by pentaxuser View Post
    So has no-one tried any kind of RA4 chemicals with Fuji paper at room temp?
    I've done lots of prints on Fuji CA with Tetenal room temperature kit at 24 deg C with no problems (well, no additional problems to Tetenal blix problems ).

    A few days ago I finally tried Fuji CA with Kodak chemicals (24 deg C, 2min 15sec, without starter), and the result was absolutely fine without any problems. However, the image I used had some mixed lighting and is hard to evaluate for delicate gray balance.

    To match Kodak Supra Endura, I had to correct around -5M -5Y and decrease exposure by around 20%. Then, the images are very close, Fuji CA has a bit higher saturation and a small contrast boost, but definitely not bad.

    But well, I'll continue using Fuji CA with Kodak chems at room temp and will report if I have any problems arising.

  9. #9

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    Interesting and thanks, hrst. Why 24 deg C instead of 20 deg C? Is 24 deg C the lowest and closest to room temp that gives good colour balance or is 24 deg C the lowest temp that gives reasonable dev times? I have in mind to use a Nova slot processor and while 2 mins 15 secs and 24 degrees C is a reasonable temp to aim for, it means keeping the processor at a higher than room temp. 20-21 degrees would be ideal unless there were addition colour problems or very long dev times.

    Thanks

    pentaxuser

  10. #10
    hrst's Avatar
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    Pentaxuser, because the darkroom I use happens to be at 23 to 24 deg C most of the time, both in summer and winter, and I cannot control it :-).

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