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  1. #11

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    Quote Originally Posted by coigach View Post
    You'll see from the link that Dr5 also offer a 'developer 2' option which is sepia, but this is a separate thing altogether to the standard b+w 'developer 1' option...

    Cheers,
    Gavin
    True, the "straight" DR5 is neutral but what i like is to print the second option (developer 2) which gives the brown-sepia color and which print perfect using ilfochrome.

  2. #12

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    Quote Originally Posted by perkeleellinen View Post
    I think for about 9 months now I've been in a shall I - shan't - I situation with Ilfochrome. I'm wondering about the chemistry - can I use it in a Nova processor? My darkroom has no ventilation, big problem?
    Well, i have used the ilfochrome chemicals for a long time, its not unsually toxic (not like selenium). However the bleach component is very corrosive, just forget to use any steel/iron product. I use gloves and a carbon filter face mask when i mix/handle the chemicals. When they are in the Nova processer I only use gloves (I have very sensitiv hands, i can handle any chemicals on the skin). I do have ventilation in the darkroom, but it has happen that i forgot to turn it on and nothing has happen. I think you are safe.

    If you decided to use a Jobo processor you can place the processor in any well ventilated area because the plastic tube is light tight. Before i got the Nova processor i used a Jobo and sometimes i still run ilfochrome in it.

    So dont worry, get a small package of medium contrast paper and the P30 2l kit, you will love the color, and you can print any positiv you have. Just try it.

    cheers

  3. #13

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    Quote Originally Posted by perkeleellinen View Post
    I think for about 9 months now I've been in a shall I - shan't - I situation with Ilfochrome. I'm wondering about the chemistry - can I use it in a Nova processor? My darkroom has no ventilation, big problem?

    You want ventilation. I'm sure if you detail your darkroom setup someone can devise a vent system for it.

  4. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by sandholm View Post
    True, the "straight" DR5 is neutral but what i like is to print the second option (developer 2) which gives the brown-sepia color and which print perfect using ilfochrome.
    Here's Ilford SFX dr5 reverse processed in sepia dev 2 - I've a large framed Ilfochrome print of this on my wall...

    Cheers,
    Gavin
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails dr5-sfx.jpg  

  5. #15

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    My darkroom is tiny, tiny. A cupboard under the stairs, one wall faces the sitting room the other into the garage. Unfortunately, this is rented accommodation so I can't smash a hole into the garage to fit an extractor. Luckily, because it's so small, I rarely stay in there for long - one print and I'm out washing it in the kitchen sink. Because of this I think I tend to stay in there for 5 - 10 minutes maximum. I've never had any issues with RA4 or B&W chems, the Nova has such a narrow opening that little is exposed to air and I tend to put the lids back on straight after removing the print.

    It sounds like I could give Ilfochrome a good stab. The only hurdle now is cost! Perhaps I'll get my wife to treat me for Christmas!
    Steve.

  6. #16

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    As a totally novice and if I have to start it on top of my development of slide for scanning and black and white printing, what are the other bits I needed. Ok, to be more specific,

    Can these chemicals ship to Hong Kong? How much it actually costs to print one 8x10? Can it print using any slide (Velvia 50/Kodak E100 etc. in 6x6, 6x7, 6x8 up to 4x5 )? Can you contact print (8x10 E6 slide, mostly Velvia 50)? I got Jobo (in fact 4 different types including CPA2, CPE2, ATL1500 and DuoLab) but I only get a black and white enlarger (China made one and Beseler 4x5 with cold head)? What other can get you start ... in fact what other missing bits I need to do RA4 and this process?

  7. #17

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    Hi, will try to answear a bit of your questions, to start with I consider RA4 to be a much harde process and much more "quessing" then ilfochrome. When you use ilfochrome you have a standard filter setup, that means the filter you use to render a "standard" print based on your way of measuring light/development and preferences. When you get a new box of paper you do not have to waist paper to get the same "standard" print, instead you calculate this from your last box of filter setting to your new box. Therefore, when you have figured out the filter setting for a print and you make one. Two years later someone else want to have a print, the only thing you have to do now (if you wrote down your filter settings) is to calculate the differences between the boxes and add to your standard filter settings. This sounds more hard then it is, its super easy


    Quote Originally Posted by dng88 View Post
    How much it actually costs to print one 8x10?
    (prices from http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/ without the shipping)
    P30 Kit 2l cost £119.95
    Ilfochrome Med.Contrast 8x10" 25 £54.00

    From the P30 you can print 26 8x10 (16 8x10 per liter), so to print one 8x10
    (119.95/26)+54/25 = 6.773 punds (then plus shipping). Now the larger quantities you get of paper/chemicals the cheaper it gets.
    Quote Originally Posted by dng88 View Post
    Can it print using any slide (Velvia 50/Kodak E100 etc. in 6x6, 6x7, 6x8 up to 4x5 )?
    Yes, if it fits in the enlarger and its a positiv you can
    Quote Originally Posted by dng88 View Post
    Can you contact print (8x10 E6 slide, mostly Velvia 50)?
    I dont see a reason why you should not be able to. There are people who use it in cameras. http://www.1827.eu/GoingUltra/GoingUltra-3.htm

    Quote Originally Posted by dng88 View Post
    I got Jobo (in fact 4 different types including CPA2, CPE2, ATL1500 and DuoLab) but I only get a black and white enlarger (China made one and Beseler 4x5 with cold head)? What other can get you start ... in fact what other missing bits I need to do RA4 and this process?
    Yes, there is a ilforchrome filter set that i think you still can purchase, at least on ebay or any other auction homepage. They are not as handy as a color head but it works.

    Go for it, you will like it.

  8. #18
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    I used Ilfochrome in my lab until january this year. It was just harder and hardert to get hold of chemicals and paper. Scandinavianphoto seems to have it in stock, but the price of the products seems to scare the buying custom. even ers of mine. Even the very large companies says: Use inkjet for our ordered pictures. They dont wanna pay the price for Ilfochrome. even when you lay a inkjet and a Ilfochrome side by side the cant seem to find a good enought reason to pay for the higher quality. Its more like this: - What the heck, the inkjet looks good enough to hang on our wall. After framing and matting nobody of our guests will see any difference.

    And as a photographer, im not paying the price for the customers anymore. Maybe galleries and art-customers are the last stand of customers who really by out of quality and estetiqe? For me it loooks like that.

  9. #19

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    A couple of questions for all you Ilfochrome old hands:

    - Out of a pack of 25 sheets, would it seem reasonable to hope for 15-20 prints?
    - If I cut some sheets into strips, and then use those for colour balancing, I am balancing for the paper or the slide? As I can see the positive image projected, I can tweak the filtration until it looks right. Am I then just tweaking to fit the paper's balance?
    Steve.

  10. #20

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    Quote Originally Posted by perkeleellinen View Post
    A couple of questions for all you Ilfochrome old hands:

    - Out of a pack of 25 sheets, would it seem reasonable to hope for 15-20 prints?
    Well, your first pack you have to dial in your "standard" filter setting, which means the filter you use to render a "standard" print made with your film and your way of shooting/development and preferences. After that, you can expect at least 15 good one from a package (if you dont want to do something super elaborate). 20 well, maybe, if they are all well exposed and no strange colors.

    For example, if you already have printed a negative and you know your filter settings, you can grab a new box, calculate the corresponding filter settings for this box and get 25 perfect prints.
    Quote Originally Posted by perkeleellinen View Post
    - If I cut some sheets into strips, and then use those for colour balancing, I am balancing for the paper or the slide? As I can see the positive image projected, I can tweak the filtration until it looks right. Am I then just tweaking to fit the paper's balance?
    Well, each paper has it own color calibrations, using this you can calculate your standard filtering, when this is done you will really be fine tuning, maybe lift some magenta from the sky... but really really just fine tuning. Its not like RA4 were you use a lot of test strips to get the filter setting right for that specific package and you have to start over when you grab a new box.

    So, long answer short, the paper you calibrate after the color calibration values of the box, after that its only the color shift you have in the negative.

    For more info see: http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tu...ilfochro.shtml

    cheers

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