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Thread: Input on E6

  1. #1

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    Input on E6

    I will have to start E-6 development. I live in a place where it is impossible to get slide film developed decently (if at all); I will even have to import the chemistry from abroad.
    I have looked at earlier threads on APUG and picked up some points; questions remain which I would like to ask to those experienced in the process.
    1) there seem to be two kits on the market: Arista and Tetenal; Kodak no more. Are they good, which is to be recommended? How do they keep? Are possible additions advisable, like a bath in formalin to boost permanence?
    2) temperature control: I don't have a Jobo, how far do I get with temperature control by a waterbath which I adjust to the desired temperature and then hope to keep reasonably stable until development is finished? Or do you think some mechanic devise is indispensible? Which are possible problems with the simpler method?
    3) Considering the fact that I will have to get everything from abroad, is it possible to make up the chemistry be oneself? Are there recipies?

  2. #2
    hrst's Avatar
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    There are also Fuji products that are readily available in Europe; e.g. http://www.ag-photographic.co.uk/process-e6-119-c.asp

    I'd use Fuji's 7-bath kit, as a real manufacturer and real process it can't go wrong... However I have had great results also with Tetenal's 4-bath kit too.

    Just use a water bath to keep the temperature, adding hot water every time it starts to cool down. During the First Developer, you probably need to add hot water only once. Then, the rest of the process is allowed to drift somewhat more. Fever thermometers work just on the correct temperature range and are precise. The average temperature during first developer is important and +/- 0.3 C deviation is well acceptable. Manual agitation just like with BW works, it's just more continuous, like agitating every 15 seconds instead of every minute.

    There are homebrew recipes, but they may not be perfectly accurate, you will need special chemicals, all in all, it will probably get even more expensive and won't be easy and quick. See; http://www.apug.org/forums/forum40/4...kipedia-3.html

    I think we living in Europe have things surprisingly well. I've bought chemicals from AG Photographic, UK, with postage fee of 39 GBP up to 30 kgs, and still considered it quite bearable if you just buy as much as possible at the same time. You, living in Germany, will have much lower cost than that! We are lucky to have FujiHunt C-41 and E6 kits available here.

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    Germany? But you're in the homeland of Maco!

    They do Fuji and Tetenal's E6 kit, as well as a whole lot more.

    Hope that helps!

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    Mark Antony's Avatar
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    "2) temperature control: I don't have a Jobo, how far do I get with temperature control by a waterbath which I adjust to the desired temperature and then hope to keep reasonably stable until development is finished?"

    Why not try a fish tank heater and a plastic washing bowl?

    Mark

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    i loved the kodak kit, i was upset to see that they discontinued it, i now have the arista kit but havnt used it yet. i have dev lots of rolls of e6 and for the most part very consistant results, biggest thing is the temp of your chemicals especially first developer. good luck and post results.
    "Why thats one of those old black and white cameras aint it?"

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    Thank you for the answers. I should have mentioned this in my first post; I don't live in Germany any more, but in Lahore, Pakistan, and in this country there are hardly any analogue products any more. There is one E6 lab left (Fuji, I think), and you have to take or leave the quality they deliver. Even the roll films I use I import. I usually bring things with me when I come back from visiting Europe.
    Hrst, thank you for mentioning the 0.3 C plus or minus; I do think now I need some mechanical temperature control, or it will be all hazardous. What was that about a fish tank? Does an aquarium heating system work?
    And, I somewhere read about minilabes, does anyone have experience with them? Where are they sold?

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    hrst's Avatar
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    Many people suggest aquarium heaters but you have to either modify one or find a very special one that goes to 38 deg. C. Most of them do not.

    If you have large enough water bath volume, such as tens of liters, cooling is slow enough so you don't need any regulating equipment, just a thermometer and hot water to add manually every 5 minutes or so.

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    Diapositivo's Avatar
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    Aquarium heaters don't arrive to 38 °C. I bought a Hydor Theo Heater 200W, the temperature scale arrives up to 32 °C, I forced the handle to go past that point, and it went past it without breaking. I use it for keeping warm some rinse water, so I don't need exactly 38 °C, but I think it is certainly possible to find a position that heats your water at 38 °C and keeps it there. The site of the producer is www.hydor.com. I suppose you can easily buy it over the internet if you don't find it in Pakistan.

    Fabrizio
    Fabrizio Ruggeri fine art photography site: http://fabrizio-ruggeri.artistwebsites.com
    Stock images at Imagebroker: http://www.imagebroker.com/#/search/ib_fbr

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    [QUOTE=Lukas Werth;1132697]I will have to start E-6 development....¨
    Greetings from Kenya. If U do more than 4 sheets / one role a year a processor is a godsent. For me Tetenal works perfectly - even in a water bath w just an immersion heater to keep it warm. As said this is a stressful approach. Issue here: getting those chemicals. Air security frankfurt recently objected to take a well packed 5l-kit. Btw I use camping gas to akeep the chemistry - after 10 months break the stuff was still ok! Good luck!

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    Thank you for the input. I think I will have to get something made here for temperature control when I start E6. Pittp, it is heartening to see that you in Kenya work with analog material. I imagine the overall situation must be similar to here. One question: how do you use "camping gas" - I assume that's gas from a camping cylinder for cooking or light - to keep the chemistry? Do you replace with it the air in the bottles? How do you do that?

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