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  1. #1

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    E-6 not clear after processing?

    I finished up processing two rolls of E-6 film using the 3 part kit, and hung them to dry but they dried with the carrier looking dark blue instead of clear, even on the film ends.

    This is the kit that Freestyle sells that goes 1ST developer, Color Developer, BLIX.

    I am just wondering what part of the process has gone bad on me? I have used these chemicals before with no problems, and they are less than 6 months old but still I'm out two rolls of memories.

    So can anyone tell me what went wrong? Also I have a feeling that there is no hope, but is there anything that could fix this on these rolls of film?

    Thanks.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

  2. #2
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Could be one of several things such as incomplete first development, improper reversal (fog) step or several others OTOMH. Sorry. Can you scan in a sample with sprocket holes and edges?

    PE

  3. #3
    hrst's Avatar
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    Is it "milky" or "diffused"? I mean, if you look through it (for example that dark blue section), can you see clearly and sharply through it?

  4. #4

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    Oh, it's nice and clear blue, clean with no water marks, I will try to post a scan after I look at on a light table so I really know what I lost.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

  5. #5
    hrst's Avatar
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    So, you have dark blue instead of whites, resulting in very dark images, and very dark edge markings (normally they would be yellow)? Very short first developer time, or very low temperature (like room temperature or something like that), or faulty/exhausted first developer might be the cause... The problems in fogging color developer would probably cause too light images, and the problems in blix could cause milkiness.

  6. #6

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    Alright, here it is, my E-6 mess up, Please excuse the photo format, these are from a Kodak Stereo Camera so the photos are little, they overlap on some edges, and there are a few blank (dark) frames because when the film starts and ends the camera can't use some of the frames. I love this camera and started processing E-6 at home because of it, I send out my standard slides, but I do the stereo slides at home.



    You have to blow it up, but you can read Kodak E6 and the frame numbers on the rebate.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

  7. #7
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Although it does not appear blue on my monitor, I don't see edge markings. This hints at gross underdevelopment in the 1st developer. But, OTOH, there is some reversal image as seen in the light spots. I think that you have more than one problem. It appears as if the film might be under bleached and under fixed as well.

    How old was the kit as a concentrate on your shelf, and how long were the diluted solutions sitting around?

    I have a Kodak Stereo camera as well so I am familiar with the format. It was no problem at all.

    PE

  8. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by hrst View Post
    So, you have dark blue instead of whites, resulting in very dark images, and very dark edge markings (normally they would be yellow)? Very short first developer time, or very low temperature (like room temperature or something like that), or faulty/exhausted first developer might be the cause... The problems in fogging color developer would probably cause too light images, and the problems in blix could cause milkiness.
    I had a feeling and I know my luck but I was holding out hope that another run of BLIX could fix it. Well, time for a new E-6 Kit, and I won't push it as far. As for temp, I was at between 104 and 105 on the same thermometer I have always used for E-6 just as always, and I tempered the chemicals for about an hour as I normally do.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

  9. #9
    Ian Grant's Avatar
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    Try putting it back in the Blix, that'll possibly cure the problem, but first shake the blix well in a part filled bottle, that helps regenerate the bleach.

    The problem is there are VERY few good 3 bath E-6 kits, the best disappeared when Championed got the Kodak chemistry contract, they ditched Photocolor (Paterson).

    Ian

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    Although it does not appear blue on my monitor, I don't see edge markings. This hints at gross underdevelopment in the 1st developer. But, OTOH, there is some reversal image as seen in the light spots. I think that you have more than one problem. It appears as if the film might be under bleached and under fixed as well.

    How old was the kit as a concentrate on your shelf, and how long were the diluted solutions sitting around?

    I have a Kodak Stereo camera as well so I am familiar with the format. It was no problem at all.

    PE
    As for the film not being blue on your monitor, we will go with my film scanning software is not top notch and leave it at that.

    The kit is about 6 months old mixed, and this is the second time use for it.

    I am guessing that next time I should just save all my stereo film and do it all at once, you are supposed to be able to get three shots with this kit, and I seclude my first stage developer, the first second use went just fine.

    Explanation of secluding developer: I have a 1 quart kit so I use half the chemicals each time and the used does not go back with the unused.

    Color and BLIX do go back in their original mixed containers, the instructions said this should be fine.
    "Would you like it if someone that painted in oils told you that you were not making portraits because you were using a camera?"
    "Shouldn't it be more about the joy of producing and viewing the photo than what you paid for the camera?"

    Me

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