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  1. #21
    hrst's Avatar
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    You can use "BW" acetic acid based stop bath for RA-4.

    I have had no problems with citric acid based stops ("odorless") either. Try it to see if it works for you.

  2. #22
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    What's the problem with Type II ?
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  3. #23
    Michel Hardy-Vallée's Avatar
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    BTW, stop bath is optional in RA-4. If you want to use it, however, you will do fine with any kind of acid stop: vinegar in water, indicator stop, Ilford's vitamin C, etc. Used them all without problem. It may help with consistency of results.
    Using film since before it was hip.


    "One of the most singular characters of the hyposulphites, is the property their solutions possess of dissolving muriate of silver and retaining it in considerable quantity in permanent solution" — Sir John Frederick William Herschel, "On the Hyposulphurous Acid and its Compounds." The Edinburgh Philosophical Journal, Vol. 1 (8 Jan. 1819): 8-29. p. 11

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  4. #24
    hpulley's Avatar
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    Thanks. I have the Ilford low odor citric acid indicator stop.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  5. #25
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    I have been told that some stops are not suitable for color products. IDK all of the reasoning, but it may have to do with clearing out the PPD developer from the coating at a suitable pH.

    PE

  6. #26
    hpulley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Photo Engineer View Post
    I have been told that some stops are not suitable for color products. IDK all of the reasoning, but it may have to do with clearing out the PPD developer from the coating at a suitable pH.

    PE
    Interesting. What is the official Kodak stop bath for use with its RA-4 developer and fixer? Kodak Royalprint Stop bath? In a 2.5 gallon container? I can get some of that.

    Or is it more baesd upon the paper it is suitable for?

    I see Kodak publication j39 recommends Kodak Glacial Acetic.
    Last edited by hpulley; 03-27-2011 at 07:03 PM. Click to view previous post history.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  7. #27
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    Any stop of Acetic Acid at 1 - 2% is usable including indicator stop. OTOH, the problems I have heard of relate to Citric Acid. I have no personal experience with CA stops, nor have I seen documented evidence, just internal comments at EK about CA stops and color products. In fact, CA Stabilizers were once used and the norm, but the process also used an Acetic Acid stop.

    PE

  8. #28
    hpulley's Avatar
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    Thanks for that. Perhaps I'll try with and without CA to see if I need it. j39 says a stop bath or a wash is optional between dev and blix, I'll see.

    Anyone know how big ~275 and ~600 foot rolls of paper are? I don't fancy cutting them so I really hope I can still find a supply of pre-cut paper that I like though for snapshot stuff my wife actually prefers smaller prints in the album so perhaps a nice 4-5" wide roll would be good if I could figure out a good way to cut it in dim safelight. Cutting 8x10 in half is probably doable, a couple of 4x5" prints should do especially from 6x7 or 126.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  9. #29
    Photo Engineer's Avatar
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    I seem to remember another thread here with a similar subject and more information.

    PE

  10. #30
    hrst's Avatar
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    Stop indeed is optional if you can get the developer away quickly as well as possible. For example, with a blade in a processor. Stop is a sure bet in tray or drum processing. Of course you can try without it and it may be fine...

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