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  1. #41
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    Henry, yes RA4 is easy and the prints look great.

    Try adding 5-10 points of yellow to your prints if these scans are representative of the actual test print color balance.

    You will need to add some exposure also but not much.
    Balancing corrections will come second nature after a little experience.

    I'm using some expired Supra Endura sheets and also a fresher ROLL of Kodak Edge, 8"x610'
    The roll is inside a brown paper wrapper (inside a box) and the box is about 14-18 inches square.
    It maybe weights 5-10 lbs.

    Sorry for the Imperial measurements.

  2. #42
    David Lyga's Avatar
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    For what it's worth: I use the Kodak Dev/Repl RT (roller transport) (I buy from PDIsupply.com in Rochester, NY). The last time I bought some was back in 2007. I buy it in 25 Gallon sizes and I preserve it indefinitely (naysayers will never believe this but that is their collective problem: I have some that I have been monitoring for 12 years and it is as good as new).

    Here is what you have to do: Parts A and B are vulnerable to oxidation (C is an extremely alkaline mixture and does not need oxidation protection). Either pour the A and B (SEPARATELY!) into either glass or high density clear plastic bottles (Gatorade, most sodas, juice, these containers are EVERYWHERE and do not 'breathe'). The problem is filling them up ENTIRELY to the brim. You can use glass marbles to take up the slack and I've found those tiny (50ml) liquor bottles extremely useful (oddly the ones with the metal caps work best; the ones with the plastic caps sometimes fail, but for the larger size bottles (ie, 500ml) the plastic caps provide a perfect seal).

    You have two options: either do as I said, above, keeping the components separate, or actually mix the whole batch and store that way, but ALWAYS filling to the very brim. If you have the storage area this will probably be the best way to go.

    But if you keep the components separate, as far as part C goes, I found out the hard way that, in its pure state, it will actually soften the walls of these clear, high density bottles and be unwise to store this way. Either keep 'C' in its original container or store in glass (need not be filled to the brim).

    I actually feel sorry that so many out there are challenged to make these chemicals last literally forever. Few will heed. That becomes not my problem but I did take the time to reiterate what I have said many times in the past. The rest is up to you. If you have queries either email me HERE: david33x@yahoo.com or call (Philadelphia) 215.569.4949. 'Nuff said. - David Lyga

  3. #43
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    David,
    I'm finding the RT version extremely robust as to keeping and capacities also.

  4. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by brucemuir View Post
    Henry, yes RA4 is easy and the prints look great.

    Try adding 5-10 points of yellow to your prints if these scans are representative of the actual test print color balance.

    You will need to add some exposure also but not much.
    Balancing corrections will come second nature after a little experience.

    I'm using some expired Supra Endura sheets and also a fresher ROLL of Kodak Edge, 8"x610'
    The roll is inside a brown paper wrapper (inside a box) and the box is about 14-18 inches square.
    It maybe weights 5-10 lbs.

    Sorry for the Imperial measurements.
    Thanks for your suggestions. Yes, looking this morning I think I needed to add more yellow, you're right. Next session, hopefully tonight! Working in the dark and then turning the lights on to view the prints and judge for color balance seems difficult, especially since my overhead lamps are flourecent by the trays but tungsten over the wash.

    My long roll is in a brown paper wrapper and then a black bag as usual I guess. I'm just trying to figure out if I should get a cutter or use scissors for cutting the roll. I've got some old boxes and bags to store the cut pieces so I just need an evening to cut 50-100 sheets off for now.

    Need to try the Crystal Archive II as well since that is the only one which seems to be easy to obtain.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  5. #45
    hpulley's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by David Lyga View Post
    For what it's worth: I use the Kodak Dev/Repl RT (roller transport) (I buy from PDIsupply.com in Rochester, NY). The last time I bought some was back in 2007. I buy it in 25 Gallon sizes and I preserve it indefinitely (naysayers will never believe this but that is their collective problem: I have some that I have been monitoring for 12 years and it is as good as new).

    Here is what you have to do: Parts A and B are vulnerable to oxidation (C is an extremely alkaline mixture and does not need oxidation protection). Either pour the A and B (SEPARATELY!) into either glass or high density clear plastic bottles (Gatorade, most sodas, juice, these containers are EVERYWHERE and do not 'breathe'). The problem is filling them up ENTIRELY to the brim. You can use glass marbles to take up the slack and I've found those tiny (50ml) liquor bottles extremely useful (oddly the ones with the metal caps work best; the ones with the plastic caps sometimes fail, but for the larger size bottles (ie, 500ml) the plastic caps provide a perfect seal).

    You have two options: either do as I said, above, keeping the components separate, or actually mix the whole batch and store that way, but ALWAYS filling to the very brim. If you have the storage area this will probably be the best way to go.

    But if you keep the components separate, as far as part C goes, I found out the hard way that, in its pure state, it will actually soften the walls of these clear, high density bottles and be unwise to store this way. Either keep 'C' in its original container or store in glass (need not be filled to the brim).

    I actually feel sorry that so many out there are challenged to make these chemicals last literally forever. Few will heed. That becomes not my problem but I did take the time to reiterate what I have said many times in the past. The rest is up to you. If you have queries either email me HERE: david33x@yahoo.com or call (Philadelphia) 215.569.4949. 'Nuff said. - David Lyga
    Thanks! I'm a scotch drinker so I do have some 50mL sample bottles around, maybe even some 100-200mL. There is some space at the top of the original plastic bottles that they come in but perhaps they are nitrogen purged at the factory? I might try marbles instead and leave them in their original containers.

    I intend to mix it up .5-1L at a time, maybe even 1 gallon at a time. No problem with the imperial, we use both really (though I hate US vs. English fluid ounces!).
    Last edited by hpulley; 04-09-2011 at 09:59 AM. Click to view previous post history.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

    Happiness is...

  6. #46
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    I tried a boxcutter and template to 10-12 inches but that got cumbersome although it does work.

    I ended up with a Dahle cutter, I think it was just under 50 bux usd. It's not a REAL nice one but it's fine for now.
    The cutting surface is a bit short so I made cardboard extensions to the length Im cutting and I can feel the edge in the dark.

    I'm using a 4 blade easel so I just trim the corners square afterwards and dont worry about being too precise in the dark.
    I sometimes just use the larger border for notes.

    610 ft is alot to play with although the Supra does look way better than Edge.

    I used to use Fuji CA about 8 years back. I think it was called PII but I was using a tapletop processor @ warmer temps so IDK how it would do in trays a room temp.

    I will probably have to investigate the current fuji offerings at some point.

  7. #47
    hpulley's Avatar
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    I'm using an easel too so I'm not worried about how clean the cuts are, as long as I have the exposure area I want.

    The Endura and Kodak Ektacolor RA stuff works fine at room temperature, I was pleased. It was 33C initially but after it cooled I used longer times and it still seemed to work fine so I didn't bother refilling the 12x16" trays that I'd placed my 8x10" trays in to keep them warm. I'll just use it at room temp if I can or does this affect the color balance at all? It didn't seem to affect the balance, just the development time.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

    Happiness is...

  8. #48
    hrst's Avatar
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    Both Supra Endura and "plain" Fuji Crystal Archive work for me at 23 deg.C for 2 minutes or 2'30 with Kodak RA-4 replenisher without starter. I haven't even tried higher temperatures to see if there is any difference in filter pack.

    In addition, I find that Supra Endura and Fuji CA are very close in filtration, about 5 units in both magenta and yellow.

  9. #49
    hpulley's Avatar
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    What about Fuji films vs. Kodak films? So far I'm finding NPH is redder than Portra so I need to change the filtration based upon that as well. Will be printing Reala and Ektar shortly.
    Harry Pulley - Visit the BLIND PRINT EXCHANGE FORUM

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  10. #50
    brucemuir's Avatar
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    Yes the film base/orange mask is a bit different even between NC and VC of the same "brand" of film.
    Corrections are always a bit different to start but I shoot alot of short dsted (alright expired) film so I'm always testing for color balance anyway. Not an issue considering I got that roll of 610 feet for around 35 usd delivered off ePrey.

    I always evaluate under window/daylight. This isn't optimal but it's waaay better than a safelight or tungsten bulb. They had a daylight viewing station where I first tried RA4.

    I've used that RT stuff down to 62-64f without issue.

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