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  1. #1

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    blotchy first attempt at C41 - any ideas?

    I processed my first roll of Color film (Kodak ultramax 400) with my new tetenol kit. The process seemed to work, but about 1/3rd of the pictures have dark irregular stains. I've included some of examples. Any ideas?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails img232-3.jpg   img231-5.jpg   img230-5.jpg  

  2. #2
    Jim Noel's Avatar
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    Each of these problems appear to be the result of processing errors. The middle image indicates inadequate developer solution, and this could also be apart of the problem with the others. Agitatoin methods could be apart of the problem.
    [FONT=Comic Sans MS]Films NOT Dead - Just getting fixed![/FONT]

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    The first few times I tried C-41, I was trying to keep it at the recommended 102º F. I don't know if my agitation was off or what, but I got some funky results on my 4x5 negatives not dissimilar to what you have there: weird, blotchy color shifts, etc.

    Because of the short development times at those temperatures, it really has to be spot on perfect or you greatly increase your chances of screwing up your film from improper agitation, bubbles, etc.

    I've been processing in handheld inversion tanks at room temperature ever since I killed an entire batch of 4x5 negs from trying to do it at 102º, and have had quite acceptable results for both roll and sheet film. I've used both the Arista and Tetenal kits, 13.5mins in developer and 8 mins in blix @ 68º, agitating for 5 sec ever 30 seconds.

    Yes, it takes a lot longer, but if you're going to be hand processing, it leaves much much more margin for error.
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  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by mkillmer View Post
    I processed my first roll of Color film (Kodak ultramax 400) with my new tetenol kit. The process seemed to work, but about 1/3rd of the pictures have dark irregular stains. I've included some of examples. Any ideas?
    I don't know exactly what your problem is but I have found that a good 2-3 minute pre wash helped a lot..

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Noel View Post
    Each of these problems appear to be the result of processing errors. The middle image indicates inadequate developer solution, and this could also be apart of the problem with the others. Agitatoin methods could be apart of the problem.
    Yes! You are right -it does look like too little developer!
    I definitely put in more than enough. Is it possible for the spiral to get caught mid way up the central tube in the tank due to agitation? How do I stop this from happening?

  6. #6

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    Put a rubber band on the center tube above the reel , that should do the trick.

  7. #7
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    If you did not use a prewet before processing, this may be part of the problem. It also looks like insufficient agitation in the first developer and in the bleach bath.

    Remember people, a light spot in the positive is a dark spot in the negative and so insufficient developer would give a dark edge in the positive and not a light edge as seen above. Blotches indicate either insufficient agitation or no pre-wet in a drum or tank process.

    PE

  8. #8
    Makten's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mfratt View Post
    I've been processing in handheld inversion tanks at room temperature ever since I killed an entire batch of 4x5 negs from trying to do it at 102º, and have had quite acceptable results for both roll and sheet film. I've used both the Arista and Tetenal kits, 13.5mins in developer and 8 mins in blix @ 68º, agitating for 5 sec ever 30 seconds.
    This is really interesting! If there are no cons except for the extended time, why have we never heard of this? I would much, much rather take the extra time than going through the PITA of keeping 38C and having to stress and hurry with the developer.

    I know that Tetenal themselves claim that you can develop at 30C for 8 minutes, so if that doesn't affect the colors, it makes perfect sense to do it at 20C for an extended time.

    Anyone else tried this? I don't want to screw up my film.

  9. #9
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    No secret really, in the machine processing section the JOBO/Tetenal instructions list 75F 17:30 dev, 8:00 blix so the 13.5 dev at 68F seems a bit short but if it works, use it I guess! However, 104F is listed as the recommended temperature for machine processing (doesn't say why).
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  10. #10
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    I have tried and tried to do C41 at 20 deg C and have gotten high yellow or low cyan contrast or both. I have never been able to get a matched curve set from low temperature processing due to diffusion problems with the developer.

    PE

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